Day 13 & 14: Split / Hvar

Sunday 15 & Monday 16 September

Obviously I started taking fewer notes cos Tom arrived and I have someone to talk to. Sorry: the journal gets a bit sparse.

First full day in Split, Sunday, we managed to get a really nice coffee, have a burger/salad by the sea in Restaurant Family, look at a statue of Gregory of Nin, drink a lovely wine in a gorgeous bar, and find Tom some things to wear to the wedding coming up in Italy in a matter of days.

Quite a lot of time in shops and walking to shops, yes, but we saw more of Split and achieved a goal. And he got a jacket he looks very handsome in.

We stumbled on a really nice and lucky really vegetarian restaurant for dinner: Pandora Greenbox. Actually it was vegan! I had gnocchi and was very full by the end.

Next up was a real highlight of the trip: we did a day trip to Hvar. We took the ferry in the morning (slightly chancing it that we’d be able to get on a ferry at a good time; we could — and return tickets were available).

Absolutely stunning.

Such a cute place. We stumbled around some market stalls and art galleries but were seemingly drawn upwards and kept trekking up the little paths leading to the fort. Anyway, accidentally climbed up to the fort. Amazing views. Did not go in the fort.

Wandered back down and somewhat reluctantly went to Pošteni — a restaurant that had been advertised on the ferry (why does that feel like cheating or missing out on a real gem?)

But I had a beautiful salmon fillet and veg for lunch (the first healthy meal in an age, probably) and two wines while we had some nice big chats.

Then we walked around the coast a bit more to see if we could somehow get near or even into the sea and make it worth the effort to wear a swimsuit all day.

We rocked up somewhere quite fancy but it looked like the attendant wasn’t too bothered with non-paying guests — and some people were just leaving and shared their tickets. So, managed to get some beach club deckchairs for free and do some swimming in the sea! Salty kisses and core memories fully established.

Aperol on the dock.

Wine on the other dock.

Back to Split on the slow ferry at 1840 (with an annoying chatty English woman behind us talking to her friend on the phone.. and cooing at someone called RenaRoo?!) and then… off to Froggyland! A super weird taxidermy museum. Made me properly delirious. I can’t really describe it and I shouldn’t have to: please go if you ever visit Split.

The risotto/pasta dinner was pretty bang average, but a good compromise when you are trying to find decent veggie options in a place like Croatia. Super near our lovely little Airbnb, so we could stoat home and get some sleep. Dubrovnik tomorrow!