Two Vietti Barolos

Two Barolos from Vietti

At the very end of the Cambridge leg of the Hallgarten & Novum Tasting Tour, I quickly worked my way through some of their higher-end bottles.

With only a few minutes left, there was not really time to do justice to these wines as I had focused mainly on the quirkier and more leftfield examples at more everyday prices.

But opportunities to taste such a range of rarefied, high-end wines do not come around all that often, and there is a need to calibrate one’s palate, so I tasted my way through and scribbled a note as to whether I thought they were worth the ticket price.

In most cases, I felt they were — in the broadest sense that they were demonstrably more complex, detailed and sophisticated than the lower-priced wines and therefore you could see where your money had gone.

There is of course an entirely separate personal judgement of whether you would ever spend the type of money these wines command on a bottle, but that was not my criterion here.

At this price point, it is not sufficient for a wine to be merely good — or even somewhat better than a less-expensive wine. North of £100 per bottle, it needs to be demonstrably superior, to have a sense of greatness about it and to inspire something more than mere sensory pleasure.

**Vietti, Barolo “Lazzarito”, 2020 (Vintage Wine & Port, Corking Wines, Great Wines Direct, Brunswick)**

They say:

Vietti wines are known for their elegance, complexity, and aging potential. Vietti’s Barolo “Lazzarito” is a fine red wine crafted entirely from Nebbiolo grapes, sourced from the esteemed Lazzarito vineyard in the municipality of Serralunga d’Alba, a fabulous amphitheater-shaped plot with a south-western exposure.

The soil is rich in limestone and clay, and the altitude is between 260 and 390 m asl. The average age of the Guyot-cultivated vines is 42 years, with a density of approx. 4.500 plants per hectare.

The alcoholic fermentation lasts about 3 weeks in stainless steel tanks in contact with the skins with regular pumping-overs. This period includes a cold pre- and a post-fermentation maceration, involving the traditional submerged-cap method.

I say:

15%

100% Nebbiolo

Malolactic fermentation in wood; aging about 30 months in large casks.

intense ruby-garnet; red and dark fruit, spices and tobacco, white pepper and wild mint; robust and potent yet plush with figs and tart plums; elegant, well-structured tannins; poised, complex and long.

Very Good+.

**Vietti, Barolo, Monvigliero, 2020 (Ditton Wine and Spirits)**

They say:

The “Monvigliero” hillside vineyard has long been considered the most significant cru in Verduno and one of the most valuable in the entire Barolo winegrowing region.

Limestone and clay-rich soil with Marls of Sant’Agata, and a south/south-western exposure.

Altitude around 240m; average age of the vines is 44 years, with a density of around 4.500 plants per hectare.

This vineyard is historically recognised as one of the most suitable for whole-grape winemaking. The fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks with 60% whole bunch grapes; the remaining part is destemmed and crushed. After a few days of pre-fermentation cold maceration, alcoholic fermentation takes place, which lasts approximately 3 weeks with some punching-downs and pumping-overs. Malolactic fermentation takes place in wood barrels.

I say:

14.5%

100% Nebbiolo

Aged for approximately 24 months in oak

intense ruby-garnet; wild berries, rose, dried mint and white liquorice; crushed raspberries, wild strawberries, and succulent red cherries, intertwined with delicate rose petals and violets; fresh berries, potpourri and red plum; very fine sleek, polished tannins and bright acidity. subtle, precise and elegant.

Very Good+.