The only drink in the world that sets up a special table is rakı

Dr. Burkay Adalığ, author of the Gourmand Awards-winning **beverage** culture books “Meleklerin Payı,” “İmbikten Kadehe,” and “Maltın Peşinde,” presents his fourth book, “Kadehte Rakı Beyazı,” published by Epsilon Publishing. In this book, Adalığ provides incredible insights into rakı’s name, flavor, essence, history, and future. He narrates rakı’s journey from production to the table, along with trends and innovations, through interesting anecdotes. He also addresses common misconceptions about rakı and shares tips for tasting. Additionally, readers will find rakı mezze recipes by Emine Turay, rakı cocktails by Fatih Akerdem, and hundreds of photographs. We discussed the details of the book with Burkay Adalığ.

How did the idea of writing a book about rakı come about?

In my 2020 book From the Alembic to the Glass, where I wrote about the culture, history, and production methods of all distilled spirits, I devoted considerable space to rakı, alongside other spirits like whiskey, tequila, vodka, and cognac. However, the number of pages I could allocate to rakı in that book was limited, and I had gathered so many notes on rakı culture and history that I couldn’t share due to space constraints. So, on the very day From the Alembic to the Glass was published, my publisher and I decided to prepare a comprehensive book on rakı culture. Soon after, I also authored the “From the Ottoman Empire to the Republic: Alcohol and Entertainment” section in the multi-authored book Istanbul Flavors: From Past to Present. I realized that these three years of research needed to be turned into a book, and that’s how The White of Rakı in the Glass was born.

In 2004, when the private sector was granted permission to produce rakı, there were only four rakı brands in Turkey. Over the past 20 years, four or five more major rakı companies were established, 60 to 70 new brands emerged, and the flavors diversified greatly. As in every industry, there is significant competition in the rakı sector, with companies constantly striving to produce the best. This competition has led to a noticeable improvement in the quality of our rakıs. As you know, in wine, there are well-defined subcategories like monovarietal/blend, and in whiskey, single malt/blend. Although the rules for rakı production are clearly outlined in the Turkish Food Codex, there isn’t a section called “rakı types.” It’s somewhat up to us to categorize rakı based on production characteristics. For instance, according to the law, sugar can be added, but it’s not mandatory. Since some companies do not add sugar to their rakı, we can divide them into “sugar-added rakıs” and “sugar-free rakıs.” The law also states that rakı must be aged after production, but it doesn’t specify whether this should be done in oak barrels or steel tanks. As a result, some companies age their rakı in oak barrels to achieve different flavors, allowing us to talk about two categories: “oaked rakıs” and “non-oaked rakıs.” Due to the increasing diversity in recent years, we can also create subcategories like rakıs where we know/don’t know the grape variety, single-grape rakıs, and dried or fresh grape rakıs.

What can you say about the etiquette of rakı? Do you have any tips on how to serve it, the glassware, the table, or the conversation?

When it comes to etiquette, I position myself differently from traditional drink writers. I approach drink culture from a pragmatic perspective, like “Drink it however you like.” I think the ideas that cognac should be drunk in a balloon glass, whiskey should be sipped by the fireplace, or that there’s a specific way to clink rakı glasses are outdated. Everyone, especially young people, should be able to drink without being bound by strict rules. My most important rule for rakı service is that water and ice should be left to the drinker’s preference. Regarding the rakı table, I believe that the rakı should be chosen according to what will be eaten… The rakı that will be drunk with olive oil-based mezes should be different from the rakı that will be consumed at a kebab table.

“I can’t imagine a rakı table without fava and roasted eggplant.” The book also includes special meze recipes, doesn’t it?

I think one of the most distinguishing features of our country compared to others is our cuisine. Throughout history, Anatolia has been a meeting point for different cultures and cuisines, resulting in incredible richness. Personal tastes define the rakı table, but for me, essential items are oily white cheese and melon. Not only for the taste but also for health reasons. Alcohol lowers blood sugar and causes fluid/mineral loss, so cheese and melon are essential for me. As for mezes, I can’t imagine a rakı table without fava and roasted eggplant. Unfortunately, we can’t find it everywhere, but fresh lakerda is a great accompaniment to rakı. Artichokes and stuffed zucchini flowers, for example, are both delicious and filling. Of course, no matter how much we fill the table with delicious mezes, it’s impossible to set up a proper rakı table without good friends and good conversation.