The CWB Co-op Douro-Off

Do you drink port?

Chances are that if you do, it’s the odd bottle at Christmas. And yet, take a generic description of port as an ageworthy, plush, Big Red with ripe red-and-dark fruits and it might easily make you think of more-popular regions such as Rioja, Rhone, Napa or Barossa.

Is it the sweetness Thing, then? Quite possibly, as port typically contains around 100g/l of residual sugar, more than double that of a dessert wine.

Centuries ago, the British fell so in love with the deep flavours and concentration of port that in order to stabilise it for the long sea journeys back to England, the locals began fortifying it with grape spirit part-way through fermentation, leaving it both stronger and sweeter.

Today, with a focus on lower alcohol levels and a fashion for drier wines, the Douro is supplementing its fortified, sweet port production with dry, unfortified table wines made from the same grapes.

These two Douro wines compare-and-contrast the effects of fortification. First a standard-issue LBV port from Taylors, then an unfortified Douro red from The Co-op ‘s Irresistible range.

They say (BBR website):

The Douro wine-making region in northern Portugal is famous for its terraced vineyards along the Douro River, producing renowned Port wine and excellent table wines with exceptional grape varieties such as Touriga Nacional. It symbolises Portugal’s rich winemaking heritage and attracts wine enthusiasts worldwide.

The Douro region begins 100km inland from Porto and extends east to the Spanish border. With its winding river, sculptured terraced hillsides and wild, hilly vistas it is one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world. Dominated by the region’s famous fortified Ports, the Douro’s still wines are gaining a rapidly improving reputation.

The region’s soils benefit from a thick layer of schist on top of the typical granite that abounds in most of northern Portugal. The schist absorbs and radiates heat back into the vines, while allowing the limited amount of rain to seep far into the ground and the vine roots to delve deep into the vertical planes. The wines are predominantly red and range from relatively light, lively and fruity to deep, dark, concentrated and fully-flavoured.

Irresistible Douro, 2024 (£8.95, The Co-op)

12.5%

translucent ruby; lifted, slightly baked dark fruits, eucalyptus and spice; fresh and plush with fine yet assertive tannins. Blueberry, red and black cherry and blackcurrant fruit, dark plum, inky pencil shavings and liquorice with minty eucalyptus. Slightly grippy finish that demands food.

Thoroughly pleasant+

Needs aeration to become fully harmonious; will repay some cellaring.

Match with robust red meats, such as as ossobuco or peppered roast venison.

**Taylors LBV Port, 2020 (£18.95, The Co-op)**

A rich, robust and fruity port, aged five to six years in wood prior to bottling. Wines labelled as late bottled vintage emulate the vintage style, but do not have sediment or crust and are ready to drink immediately.

20%

Touriga Nacional

deep, inky purple, opaque to the rim; eucalyptus, cassis, dark berries and freshly ground spices; black cherries, eucalyptus and spice, followed by a blast of pure blackcurrant with mouthwatering sweet-sharpness — cool mint and a peppery spice; rich, sweet and warming, with ripe, juicy fruit, freshness, complexity and precision.

Complex, supple and expressive.

Good+.

Drinking nicely on first pouring, it improves with aeration and will become more harmonious with cellaring.

Drink as a digestif with cherry-and-chocolate torte and a shot of espresso. Or mix it up with affogato and dark chocolate. Or match with strong blue cheese.

Originally published at https://cambridgewineblogger.substack.com.