Anatomy of a Counterfeit Mechanical Watch

Clockwise from the left, a Russian, fake Vostok, Chinese, and American watch

Purchasing a Watch

When buying a product online, I usually rely on Amazon. Sometimes, however, when searching for something small and cheap, I will navigate to its Chinese competitor.

Last December, I visited this site to order a set of replacement filters for my cat fountain. While there, I noticed a bright and beautiful mechanical watch. “That would look great on my wrist,” I thought to myself. Then, in uncharacteristic haste, I added it to my cart.

With the exception of one AI-created image, all included photographs were taken by my Pixel 7 and RedMagic smartphones.

The Vostok Watch Company

This Russian manufacturer was founded in 1942, after the Second Moscow Watch Factory was evacuated to Chistopol, Tatarstan, Russia during WWII.

Their first wristwatch, the Kirovskie, began production in 1943. In 1965, they became the official supplier to the USSR Ministry of Defense. Notable models include the Komandirskie and Amphibia, rugged, affordable mechanical watches designed for harsh conditions.

The company was privatized in 1993 and later reorganized after bankruptcy. Although this manufacturer still exists, it has trouble protecting its brand name, partly because the word “Vostok” simply means “East,” and it is difficult to copyright a direction.

Copilot AI conception of a fake Vostok (left) alongside a genuine Vostok

Fake or Homage

This article describes a Chinese watch styled after an authentic Vostok, though it has a distinctly different look.

Due to certain gaps in copyright laws, the manufacturer seems able to market it as a Vostok product. This approach negatively affects the original brand for two main reasons: potential customers might choose this watch over a genuine Vostok, and any quality issues could unjustly reflect on the Russian company.

I bought this watch because I liked its design; however, it is clearly counterfeit. If you want an authentic Vostok, there’s good news — they’re available at the official Meranom website. These watches cost more than the one I purchased, but they're still quite reasonable. I cannot speak to the quality of Meranom’s service, as I have not personally ordered from them.

The counterfeit Vostok

Description

The watch head is made of stainless steel and features a screw-on caseback. It is fitted with a blue 20mm wide silicone strap that extends the total watch length to 10 inches.

When measured at the outer edge of the bezel, the watch head’s diameter is 40.5mm. The bezel rotates smoothly counterclockwise but does not extend high enough to protect the watch’s Hardex crystal. The watch head is 12.6mm thick.

This timepiece features an unusually large crown at the four o’clock position that adjusts the date and time. If needed, it can also wind the watch.

The vivid blue watch dial reflects light well. A small but easily read day-of-month window is located at the three o’clock position. This watch is fitted with large luminous pointers, and the second hand features a red dot to improve visibility. Unfortunately, the luminous effect does not persist very long. A silver submarine icon is pasted to the dial, near the bottom.

This timepiece is powered by a Miyota 8215, a well-regarded movement from the Citizen Watch Company based in Japan.

The Miyota 8215 is a 21-jewel automatic movement running at 21,600bph. It boasts a 40+ hour power reserve and an accuracy of –20 to +40 sec/day. During a four-day test, my watch gained 13 seconds each day.

This movement features hacking and a day-of-month complication. Hacking refers to the ability to halt the movement of all pointers — including the second hand — by pulling out the watch crown. This function is useful when you want to set the time accurately.

Edge view of my new watch

Specifications

• Manufacturer: Unknown, but falsely labeled as Vostok
• Model: Amphibia
• Origin country: China
• Watch head dimensions: 40.5 x 12.6mm (Bezel measurement)
• Weight: 3.03 ounces
• Dial: Blue analog with day-of-month window
• Crystal: Hardex
• Strap: Blue silicone
• Movement: Miyota 8215
• Movement manufacturer: Citizen (Japan)
• Type: 21 Jewel Automatic
• Beats per hour: 21,600
• Accuracy: –20 to +40 sec/day
• Complication: Day-of-month
• Hacking: Yes

View of the Miyota movement

Build Quality

This watch features a reliable Miyota 8215 movement housed in a stainless-steel case. The crown extends noticeably but is partially protected by a lug that connects to the watch strap. Unfortunately, the bezel isn’t raised enough to shield the crystal from potential damage, and this watch should not be considered waterproof.

The silicone strap is reasonably thick and should last for several years of regular use.

In general, the build-quality is solid. However, as the lubricating oil in the movement dries out and dust collects, accuracy will slowly decline. While it’s possible to have any mechanical watch cleaned and serviced, doing so isn’t cost-effective for a watch in this price category. You can expect it to function well for about three to five years.

View of the watch’s back and silicone strap

Overall Impression

I orginally ordered this watch because it was reasonably priced, attractive, and powered by a well-regarded automatic movement.

However, although the timepiece works well, the fact that it is not a genuine Vostok concerns me. After all, if a company is willing to steal another manufacturer’s brand name, they are unlikely to offer after-sales service and support. This watch is not recommended.