Yoav’s Yaps: Papa Cristo’s Last Hurrah

Papa Cristo

A jagged line stretches down the block, people braving the afternoon heat for a chance to order a sizzling Loukaniko, a tightly-wrapped Gyro, or a cool Tzatziki dip. On Easter, there are more hungry faces than ever. We sat outside in a shaded area, pastel blue and white tablecloths arming with the food at nearby tables to create a decidedly Mediterranean feel.

A particularly prepared member of our group had brought cards, and proposed a game of Presidents. If you’ve never played this game before, I’d heartily recommend it. It’s a good way to pass the time, and we had plenty of time to pass. We had to endure nearly an hour’s wait just to order our food, switching off serving shifts in the long line.

Always full for Easter, the restaurant’s outdoor seating was fuller than my friend, a regular, has ever seen it. But it’s not just the holiday that’s bringing the crowds out to enjoy a Mediterranean meal.

Papa Cristo’s, a staple of LA’s Byzantine-Latino quarter for 77 years, is preparing to shut its doors for good. Forced out by skyrocketing rent prices, owner Chrys Chrys, who goes by Papa Cristo, will leave behind a towering legacy. “It finally came to a point where we decided we’re gonna go on our terms,” said Mark Yordon, a cousin of the owner.

If you’re planning on visiting this LA landmark before it closes its doors on May 4th (and you should), there are a few classic dishes you have to try. Marides, a plate of small fried and breaded fish, is an excellent substitute for French fries, giving you all the crunch and a slightly fishy farewell. I loved them, and I’m not a fish guy at all.

Continuing our romp through the appetizers, we had oktapodakia. Composed of whole fried baby octopuses, this dish is an excellent starter. The crispy critters go perfectly with a lemon squeeze and only made me a feel a little guilty about the whole idea of eating what are, by all accounts, pretty intelligent animals. The name of the offering is also unique, with my research turning up zero other restaurants who call their baby octopus by the same name, and only a few others who even serve this Greek delicacy.

The restaurant also offers the Greek take on falafel, with a decidedly flatter appearance than I’m used to. Despite its Flat Stanley-esque appearance, the taste was strong and right. A feta salad alongside completed the picture of the prototypical Athenian lunch. The pita accompaniment was warm and tasted fresh, but the tzatziki sauce for dipping it was a little too sour for my tastes. Despite the subpar sauce, my visit to Papa Cristo’s left me with anything but a sour taste in my mouth.

Hungry yet? Better head over quick. Papa Cristo serves up his last dishes early next month. Give him my best!