The CWB Northern Rhône-Off

A red and white from the northern Rhône

The Rhône wine region divides into the North and South; geographically separate with different climates, styles and grapes, they are united by little more than a proximity to the river Rhône (which can be quite loose, in some cases).

The (much smaller) north is where you’ll find the most vertiginous slopes, the best appellations and, correspondingly, the highest prices. Known almost exclusively for its reds made from Syrah, a quiet revolution is taking place in the vineyards, where white wines are emerging as the region’s best-kept secret.

According to BBR’s website, St Joseph provide wines of weight and worth, but the best source for value is Crozes-Hermitage, a satellite appellation which has come alive in the last few years with the arrival of young blood.

While Chapoutier is one of the great names of the Rhône and familiar to anyone with more than a superficial interest in the region, only 10% of St Joseph production is white, so the ‘Saut de l’Ange’ Blanc is something of an undiscovered gem.

The white

Pierre Jean Villa Saint-Joseph ‘Saut de l’Ange’ Blanc (£40, Ideal Wine Company)

They say:

On the right bank of the Rhône, the Saint-Joseph vineyards are situated around the 45th parallel, and are planted on steep hillside terraces which date from many centuries ago.

The appellation is known for its red wines, made predominantly from Syrah, which are powerful and elegant, and, on a smaller scale, for whites made from Roussanne and/or Marsanne. Like their terroir, the appellation winegrowers have demanding standards, seeking to produce only the best wine.

This wine is from a small plot of Roussanne in Saint-Joseph overlooking the cellar. The last vines are just centimetres from the cliff that over hangs our domain and could well be the launching spot for a ‘Saut de l’Ange’ (Angel’s leap).

I say:

Complex, spiced, hedonistic.

100% Roussanne, 10yo vines

fermented in barrel, with temperature control; aged 12 months in barrel.

granitic soils with southerly aspect; moderate continental climate with hot, dry summers

deep straw yellow; fragrant dried acacia blossom, grilled yellow fruits with baking spices, honey and sultana; ripe and rich yet fresh with pear and creamy red apple, yellow fruits, almond, fennel, honey, baking spice and vanilla; saline, concentrated, complex and generous.

Very Good+.

Drinks nicely on first opening; can be cellared for greater complexity.

Match with monkfish, lighter game such as wild salmon and guinea fowl, asparagus risotto or soft cheeses such as Brillat-Savarin or Saint-Marcellin.

Others say:

Rhône expert Matt Walls describes this wine as: “One of the best pure Roussannes on the planet”.

Pierre Jean Villa Saut de l’Ange Saint-Joseph | Vivino France

The red

M. Chapoutier Crozes Hermitage ‘Les Moniers’ Rouge (£21.00, Majestic)

They say:

An everyday luxury! The Crozes-Hermitage vineyards lie on the 45th parallel, on the left bank of the Rhône. This is the largest northern appellations extending across 11 communes in the Drôme. The prestigious wines of Crozes-Hermitage are available in red (made from Syrah) and white (made from Roussanne and Marsanne).

I say:

Elegance more than concentration; benchmark Crozes-Hermitage

100% Syrah

vinified in cement with two pumpings-over per day; aged in vat

12.5%

deep translucent ruby; wild red and black fruits with dried green herbs, tar and complex peppery spices; fresh bramble fruits, ripe plum and fresh cherry; very fine, perfectly ripe, well-integrated tannins. Harmonious, elegant and balanced.

Good+.

Awards: 2 x IWC, 95 Points, Crozes-Hermitage Trophy

Others say:

IWC: Crozes-Hermitage ‘Les Moniers’ Rouge,2022

Vivino: M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Moniers | Vivino United Kingdom