How to see wild monkeys and sloths in Cartagena

If you visit Cartagena during your travels around Colombia, you need not wait until you get to Tayrona or Minca to get your nature fix. Sandwiched between the city’s two oldest and most renowned districts is Parque Centenario, a sliver of greenery where you’ll find wild sloths and tamarins lumbering and bouncing respectively through its trees.

Info about Cartagena’s monkeys and sloths

With the nearest forest several miles away, how they got to this island of greenery is unclear. One local told me they were rescued from the pet trade by the police and released here. Another explanation, which seems a little more likely, is that their former owners — now either short of the funds or enthusiasm needed to keep these animals as pets — released them into this park in the dead of night.

Whatever the explanation, it would seem the animals are here to stay. They’re guarded against would-be poachers and draw small crowds of spectators throughout the day.

The tamarins consist of two species: the white-footed and cotton-top tamarins. The latter is named after the long white tufts of hair that cover its head. Both species are endemic to Colombia and endangered, threatened primarily by habitat loss and, of course, the illegal pet trade.

The pair of sloths in this park are both brown-throated sloths. Like other sloth species, there are many weird facts to be said about this animal beyond its slow speed. For one thing, despite spending almost all their time in trees, they descend to the ground once a week to defecate. For another, because of their slow speed, algae grows in their fur. This is actually to the sloth’s benefit, since it makes them harder for predators to spot. Unfortunately for sloth lovers, this also makes them harder to see in the wild, but Parque Centenario is small enough that it shouldn’t be a problem, especially since they tend to “hang out” in two particular trees.

How to find Cartagena’s monkeys and sloths

The trees near the park’s fountain are the best places to find the sloths. These laid-back creatures can often be found lounging at the top of the branches, but keep an eye out for them at lower levels as well. You’ll likely join (or be joined by) other groups of visitors seeking them. If you still have difficulty locating them, ask one of the park’s vendors, who will be happy to point them out. While they probably won’t expect any form of compensation, it would definitely be courteous to offer a few pesos or buy some refreshments from them.

As for the tamarins, they can usually be found in the trees near the park’s eastern end (the one furthest from the clock tower). As with the sloths, a vendor should know where they are, or there should be a telltale group of spectators. However, the tamarins are also far more conspicuous since there are several of them and they can usually be seen leaping through the branches. Keep in mind that the best time to see them is during the cooler hours of the day, as they tend to be less active during the heat of the midday sun between 12 pm and 3 pm.

Other wildlife in Parque Centenario

As well as the sloths and tamarins, Parque Centenario has a few other animals to keep nature lovers entertained. Green iguanas can sometimes be found resting in the branches or prowling about the lawns, while parakeets and woodpeckers can usually be seen flying about.

A quick guide to the rest of Cartagena

Cartagena’s Old Town is a district that blends Caribbean charm with a rich history. The streets are lined with brightly coloured colonial-era buildings, their balconies draped with flowers and ivy. As you wander through the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped back in time — until it’s time for an ice-cold beer. A minimarket, a lively bar, or a lad with a cool box full of cans is never far away in this part of town.

Getsemaní, the city’s other colonial-era district, styles itself as the place where the past meets the present. If the Old Town is colourful, Getsemaní can only be described as a riot of colours: it’s a feast for the eyes, with a plethora of street art and murals all around the neighbourhood. At night, the streets come alive, and Plaza de la Trinidad is the best spot to sit and soak in the atmosphere, with delicious street food served up against a backdrop of traditional Colombian music.

As well as art lovers and culture vultures, budget travellers will love this area too: despite being only five minutes away, prices here are significantly lower than in the Old Town, with a plethora of hostels and cheap eateries.

As the royal rule of Shoestring Safari is “Be Genuine”, it has to be said that it’s not all sunshine and rainbows.

The tourist crowds the city attracts have resulted in higher prices than the rest of Colombia, with rip-offs particularly rife here. The flip side to Getsemaní’s lively streets is that noisy nights are practically guaranteed, whatever day of the week it is. Light sleepers will want to stay in a more modern district — fortunately, there are plenty of Airbnbs in these parts of Cartagena, and many of these can be cheaper. I managed to get a private room with an ensuite this way for the same price as a dorm bed in Getsemaní.

Another thing that particularly irked me was the street vendors — Cartagena’s are much more persistent than in the rest of Colombia, and although they do take “no” for an answer eventually, it will take quite a few “noes”. Many, especially the bead vendors, will also offer you cocaine. Show some respect for Colombia and don’t take them up on it.