💄 Inside My South African Makeup Routine: The Art (and Architecture) of a Flawless Base — A Love Letter to The Black People Who Shaped It Too

The people have long begged for my base routine. Friends, followers, and even people I have to Zoom with have all sat in their chairs, gaping and whispering in hushed tones: “How is your skin that smooth?” Of course, I will get around to recording it one of these days, “but that day is not today,” I say in the voice of Ferb from Phineas and Ferb.

Makeup, for me, has always been more than aesthetics. It is identity, survival, and expression. As a black transfem, I initially learned it as a survival skill — a way to navigate a world that often judged my presence before it even registered my humanity. Over time, what began as protection became art, play, and empowerment, transforming my reflection into a statement of resilience, creativity, and joy.

Until then, let this article be your key to my makeup philosophy: meticulous, playful, and passionately detail-obsessed. Okay, this is not just a “how-to” guide. It’s my roadmap to making a face that is alive, radiant, and can easily survive a long day and night in sun-drenched South Africa, while one’s eyeliner is one of the only things keeping one’s sanity.

I want to preface this guide by saying that this is my personal routine for my neutral-warm to medium-skinned self (Fenty Beauty Soft’Lit Natural Longwear Foundation in the shade 425), but it can easily be adapted to accommodate other beauty products.

I recommend replacing the foundation in this routine with either the Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay-In-Place Foundation (I’m in the shade 6N1 Mocha, another foundation in my rotation) if you want a more matte finish to your makeup, or the Maybelline SuperStay 30H Lumi-Matte Foundation (I’m in the shade 355) if you are on a budget, or the Maybelline SuperStay 24H Skin Tint (I’m in the shade 66) if you want a base with slightly less coverage and more skin care ingredients.

Regardless of which beauty outlets you shop at in South Africa — Clicks, Dis-Chem, Edgars Beauty, and/or ARC — this guide will feel like all of your beauty needs have been met for you.

But this is more than a shopping list. It is a philosophy of layering and waiting. Learning how to do your makeup is not a race. It is a ritual. Every tube, every swish, and every tap of powder is a decision. Matte center, bright edge. Sculpt and lock. A touch of warmth here and a touch of elevation there. In this is the dance of a face that looks effortlessly assembled, even if you took 45 minutes to assemble it.

By the end of this article, you’ll have all this and more: my secrets for prepping your skin, my foundation layering techniques, my approaches to applying bronzer and contour, my blush matches, my eye looks ranging from natural to adventurous, my lip pairings for all your moods, and my methods for locking it all in. So, go pour a coffee and let’s construct your face — from your skin out.

💧 Skin Prep: Hydration, Balance, and the Art of a Perfect Canvas

Inspired by Dame Pat McGrath’s meticulous layering philosophy, I apply my skincare and primer in light, deliberate layers, allowing each product to absorb before the next. This ensures longevity and prevents pilling, much like how McGrath builds complex textures for editorial shoots.

Every work of art begins with a prepared canvas. In my opinion, that canvas is not only my skin but where science and ritual meet. Before one drop of foundation is ever applied to my face, I treat my skin as I would its exquisite architecture. I hydrate it, balance it, and prepare it to accept layers without resistance.

1. Cleansing & Toner

I begin my regimen with Nature’s Nourishment Gentle Cleanser (between R60 and R70 at Dis-chem), a soothing and gentle cleanser that effectively washes away the impurities of the day. The consistency is rich and luxurious, and it works well on my skin, which needs moisture.

Then I apply the Nivea Refreshing Toner (about R100 at Clicks). The idea here is to balance the pH and give your skin a whisper of moisture to leave it feeling alive but not slippery — a surface your foundation can caress, not compete with.

2. Creams and moisturisers

As for everyday hydration of my complexion, I rely on the Nature’s Nourishment Skin Cream for Dry Skin (R45, available at Dis-Chem). On more humid days, I opt for the Nature’s Nourishment Cold Cream (also R45 at Dis-Chem) to ensure that I am not applying a weight that is too much to handle. The trick here is to apply it sparingly — I apply enough to not cause my foundation to pill. I give my face 2–3 minutes to absorb it.

3. Sun protection

Protection is not negotiable. I use the Derm-Opal Sunscreen (R130 at Dis-Chem) — that is my invincible shield. Protection is not only a factor in sunblock but a subtle pore softener and a lightly luminous surface for makeup.

4. Primer & Pre-Foundation Setting

Here’s a tip that people always forget: I actually apply a light misting of setting spray BEFORE primer. As for drugstore brands, I apply Rimmel London Multitasker Setting Spray (R170 at Clicks/Dis-Chem), and for a more expensive one, I like Fenty Beauty’s You Mist Spray (R690 at ARC/Edgars Beauty). The effect is like a hydrating blanket that provides my primer a smooth surface to adhere to.

Then comes the primer. But again, this will depend on my final finish choice:

• Drugstore: Rimmel London Matte Primer (approximately R140, available at Dis-Chem) for soft control, which is also long-wearing.
• High-end: Estée Lauder Double Wear Primer (R735, Edgars Beauty) when I need that extra long-wear power.

The layers are kept lightweight and thoughtfully applied and left to dry thoroughly before proceeding to ensure a smooth finish — this is a tenet that wards off the dreaded foundation pill.

5. Timing & Patience

Waiting 2–3 minutes between layers is not negotiable. The whole process of hydrating toner, creams, sunscreens, mists, and primer needs a breather. To rush through this is to paint wet-on-wet without a brush. It produces separation and texture. That is not makeup artistry.

👁️ Base Routine (Eyes First): Brows, Shadows, and the Architecture of Skin

While most tutorials start with foundation, I’ve always approached my makeup like a painter approaching a canvas: define the focal points first. For me, the eyes are the story, and the brows are the frame. By starting here, the complexion becomes a subtle stage that enhances the drama and detail of my eyes.

I learned precision from local talents like Khaya Mhleli and Nkuley Masemola, whose eyebrow and eye work emphasise clean, intentional shapes that frame the face. To be exact, I adopted Nkuley’s brow routine, while I draw inspiration from Khaya when it comes to eyeshadow. Bontle Selokoma also taught me how to draw a crisp winged eyeliner, while Naledi Kekana taught me how to draw a crisp inner corner wing. Mikai McDermott and Chelsea Uchenna, UK black girl makeup pioneers, have also inspired me to play around with shimmery and metallic accents.

1. Brows: Sculpting Without Overpowering

I go for thin, straight brows — precise but natural. First, I lightly thin the hairs using an eyebrow razor (drugstore option: R50, Dis-Chem).

Next, I tame every strand with Maybelline Super Lock Brow Glue (approx. R125 at Clicks/Dis-Chem), ensuring my arches stay in place without stiffness. To fill in sparse areas, I use the Deborah Brow Marker in Dark Brow 3 (around R150 at Dis-Chem), applying tiny, hairlike strokes for texture. Finally, I clean up underneath the brow with my skin tone/correcting concealer — this step sharpens the edges without looking harsh.

This method keeps brows defined, intentional, and proportional — perfect for balancing dramatic eyeshadow or subtle soft glam.

My signature thin eyebrows.

2. Eyeshadow Primer

Before any color touches my lids, I prep with Essence Eyeshadow Primer (approx. R90, Clicks/Dis-Chem). This ensures longevity, vibrancy, and crease resistance — essential whether I’m going for a neutral daytime look or one of my experimental metallics.

3. Eyeshadow Looks: From Soft Glam to Editorial

With brows and primer set, I move on to shadows. I rotate between palettes depending on the mood:

• Revolution Beauty London Re-Loaded: Velvet Rose — soft pinks and warm neutrals.
• Smudge Eyeshadow Palettes: Dare You & Smokey — great for smoky or sultry looks.
• Passion Pro Bronzing Palette: Beach Please — to add warmth and depth to the crease.
• Hermosa Flor Grace Palette — versatile neutrals for soft glam.
• Disco Just A Little Crush Crushed Metals Palette — my go-to for editorial metallic accents.

I work with a pencil brush, detail brush, eyeliner brush, fluffy brush, dense-fluffy brush, and packing brush, allowing for precision and blend control. Depending on the vibe:

• Everyday / study day: soft matte crease + subtle shimmer lid.
• Evening/editorial: metallic lid, darker outer corner, possibly a bold liner (black, blue, green, or yellow liquid).

Below, I give 8 different looks I usually go for (some more than others) with different palettes that I pair with either a warm- or cool-toned base.

👁️ Eyes: From Soft Glam to Editorial Magic

After brows, primer, and base prep, the eyes take center stage. I curate looks that span from soft, wearable glam to bold, editorial statements — each with its own mood, brush technique, and mascara/liner pairing. With the palettes and tools at my disposal, I have eight go-to looks that define my signature eye artistry.

1. Velvet Study — Soft Matte Everyday

• Vibe: Study day, Zoom meetings, casual chic.
• Palette: Revolution Velvet Rose (soft pink matte lid), Hermosa Flor Grace Palette (matte brown in crease).
• Brushes: A fluffy brush for the crease, a pencil brush for the lower lashline.
• Liner & Mascara: Thin line with Inglot Black Gel Eyeliner; Fenty Hella Thick Brown Mascara.
• Base pairing: Works best with bronzer-based complexion for warmth and subtle lift.

Soft eyeshadow for a daytime glam.

2. Bronze Frequency — Warm Glow

• Vibe: Daytime warmth, brunch or coffee runs.
• Palette: Passion Pro Bronzer palette (warm shades in crease/lid), subtle shimmer from Hermosa Flor.
• Brushes: Packing brush on lid, dense-fluffy brush to blend crease.
• Liner & Mascara: Black gel liner in the waterline (keep it crisp), black or brown mascara for natural lift.
• Base pairing: Bronzer-heavy to complement warmth.

3. Smokey Whisper — Soft Smokey Eye

• Vibe: Evening soft glam, dinner dates.
• Palette: Smudge Quad Smokey (cool grey with brown tones when paired with the Passion Pro Bronzing Palette), subtle shimmer on inner lid.
• Brushes: Fluffy brush in crease, detail brush for outer corner, packing brush for the black eyeshadow in the mobile lid, which can sometimes serve as a base for the shimmer (silver shimmer when doing a black-grey smokey eye, gold shimmer when doing a brown-black smokey eye).
• Liner & Mascara: Inglot Black Gel for liner, Hella Thick Brown Mascara.
• Base pairing: Pairs well with contour-based sculpting to highlight cooler shadows.

A very dark smokey eye with my signature thin eyebrows.

4. Dare You Pop — Colourful Statement

• Vibe: Fun, experimental, playful.
• Palette: Smudge Dare You (pops of teal, deep maroon), lightly blended on the outer corner.
• Brushes: Pencil brush for precision, fluffy brush to soften edges.
• Liner & Mascara: Passion Pro Liquid Liner in Blue; Essence Blue Crazy Volume Mascara.
• *Base pairing:* Works with bronzer or contour,** depending on the overall warmth of the outfit/face.

5. Grace Under Pressure — Subtle Editorial

• Vibe: Editorial photoshoots, social media content.
• Palette: Hermosa Flor Grace (neutral lid + muted crease), shimmer lightly in the center.
• Brushes: Packing brush on lid, pencil for lower lashline.
• Liner & Mascara: Thin black gel line; brown mascara.
• Base pairing: Contour-based for lifted, defined cheekbones.

6. Metallic Crush — Bold Evening / Editorial

• Vibe: Nightlife, bold editorial.
• Palette: Disco Just A Little Crush Crushed Metals (metallic gold, rose gold, silver), metallic center lid.
• Brushes: Dense-fluffy brush for blending metallics, detail brush in the crease for depth.
• Liner & Mascara: Black gel liner or black liquid liner; blue or black mascara.
• Base pairing: Contour-based to complement the drama.

7. Smoky Plum — Purple Drama

• Vibe: Date night, intimate evening, creative editorial.
• Palette: Smudge Dare You (purple shades), Smudge Smokey (deep outer corner).
• Brushes: Fluffy for crease, pencil for precise outer corner and lower lashline.
• Liner & Mascara: Black gel liner; optional blue mascara for pop.
• Base pairing: Contour-based for cool depth.

8. Artistic Black Base — Experimental / Editorial

• Vibe: Runway, editorial photoshoots, bold statements.
• Palette: Metallic shadows from Disco or Hermosa Flor layered over a black base (L.A. Girl Raven lipstick-inspired inspiration for eyelid base if you want a monochrome statement).
• Brushes: Dense-fluffy for blending metallics, a detail brush for edges.
• Liner & Mascara: Strong black liner (gel or liquid); Essence Blue Crazy Volume or black mascara.
• *Base pairing:* Works best with contour-based sculpting** for maximum drama.

(I recently started leaning heavily into these looks after seeing Khaya and Thabo execute them so flawlessly on their TikTok tutorials. I took their techniques and NEVER looked back.)

💡 Pro Tips Across All Looks:

• Apply eyeshadow first; foundation later ensures color doesn’t smudge.
• Blend, don’t overlayer — soft edges always photograph better.
• Mascara choice defines mood: blue for playfulness, brown for subtle enhancement.
• Experiment with eyeliner colour — yellow, green, or blue can elevate editorial looks without feeling forced.

I use tape to draw my winged eyeliner (using the Passion Pro Black Liquid Eyeliner, R50 at Dis-Chem) to this very day, it works for me, and if it ain’t broken, don’t fix it. Sometimes I play around with blue and pink eyeliner from the same brand, especially when I want to try editorial looks.

Mascara finishes vary: Essence Cosmetics I Love Extreme Blue Crazy Volume for a playful pop, or Fenty Beauty Hella Thick Brown for softness and natural lift. I also use a combination of the Catrice Cosmetics Curl It Mascara and the Wet n Wild Mega Length Very Black Mascara on an everyday basis. But pro tip: Apply your mascara AFTER you have set and melted the powders applied during your base routine to prevent it from running, that is, if the mascara is not waterproof. I remember learning this from Badgworltee.

Tip: Eyes-first allows the shadows, liner, and mascara to dictate the intensity of your complexion later — you can always adapt foundation, bronzer, and blush to complement your chosen eye mood.

🌟 Sculpting: Bronzer, Contour, and Blush

Following techniques championed by Kevyn Aucoin, Dame Pat McGrath, and Danessa Myricks, I combine cream and powder products to sculpt without heaviness — ensuring each layer builds dimension, not mud. In addition, I took plenty of tips from my friends Bontle and Naledi, especially about how to layer makeup such that longevity is achieved without compromising luminosity. Lesedi also inspired me to play up my angular features and contour my face, not just using contour sticks, but concealer as well.

With eyes and base set, the next step is dimension. This is where your face transforms from a blank canvas into a sculpted, radiant masterpiece — matte in the centre, luminous on the high points, and perfectly harmonised with your eyes.

1. Foundation:

Before you start sculpting, always start with a light layer of foundation or a skin tint. I currently use the Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay-In-Place Foundation in the shade 6N1 Mocha. This is my summer shade (my winter shade is 5W1.5 Cinnamon). This foundation retails for R810 at Edgars Beauty. I also dream of having the Fenty Beauty Soft’Lit Naturally Luminous Foundation in the shade 425.

A drugstore alternative I use is the Maybelline SuperStay 30H Lumi-Matte Foundation in the shade 350 in winter and 355 in summer. This foundation retails for R285 at Dis-Chem. If you gravitate towards a skin tint, I will always recommend the Maybelline SuperStay 24H Skin Tint, which retails for R285 at Dis-Chem. I am in the shades 64 and 66 in both winter and summer, respectively.

Apply your foundation or skin tint at the back of your hand and load a kabuki/dense foundation brush with it, then place the brush on the sides of the nose and blend outwards on each side. Use a beauty blender to blend out any streaks left by the brush and to absorb any excess foundation.

2. Cream Sculpting: Bronzer, Contour, Blush, and Concealer

I like to start with cream products before powders. This creates a natural depth that powders then reinforce.

• Cream bronzer and contour: I alternate between Fenty Beauty Match Stix in Espresso and Ebony (R735 each, ARC/Edgars). Espresso as bronzer to add warmth; Ebony when I want sharper, cooler shadows. Pro tip: Always go over your bronzer or contour with your foundation brush or sponge. This prevents the contour from looking muddy, or bronzer from looking burnt, and keeps your face dimensional under different lighting. Blend both with an angled brush.
• Cream blush: I keep it inexpensive here. I use the Mr Price Scarlet Hill Cream Blush Sticks in the shades pink pop (cool-toned pink) and burnt rose (coral shade). I think they are discontinued, and I cannot remember how much I bought them for. Blend the cream blush with a beauty blender/sponge.
• Concealer: I currently use drugstore concealers from L’Oréal Paris: The Infallible More Than Concealers in the shades 338 Honey to colour correct, and 334 Walnut to brighten. These concealers are full coverage and they are luminous matte, in other words, they do not dry down completely matte unless you set them with powder. Blend both concealers with two separate tapered concealer brushes.

3. Powder Layering

After creams, powder ensures longevity:

• Powder Bronzer: Passion Pro Bronzer in Beach Please (if additional warmth is needed, R70 at Dis-Chem).
• Powder Contour: Essence Contouring Duo Palette in Deep (R88, Clicks/Dis-Chem).
• Powder Blush: I found these PlayGirl Matte Eyeshadows that I use as blushes. They retail for R39 each at Dis-Chem.
• Setting & Brightening: Fenty Invisimatte Powder paired with the Fenty Beauty Bright Fix Instant Brightening + Blurring Powder in the shade Peach (R915 and R880 respectively at ARC/Edgars Beauty) or Essence Cosmetics Compact Powder: All About Matt to set, the shade 30 Medium Beige to brighten with 50 True Caramel to set my foundation (R88 each, Clicks/Dis-Chem).

The philosophy is double-setting, not baking. It locks in cream sculpting and concealer while maintaining a soft, dimensional finish.

4. Powder Blush: Pairing with Bronzer or Contour

Blush is the bridge between skin tone, bronzer, and contour. My approach:

Bronzer-Based Looks (warm, sunny):

• Burnt orange or red-orange powders.
• Pink-red when I want playful warmth.
• Works beautifully over bronzer without overpowering it.

Contour-Based Looks (cooler, sculpted):

• Plum purple, red-purple, or pale pink powders.
• Balances the cooler tones of contour and adds lift without clashing.

Permutations:

• Red-pink + bronzer → soft glam
• Red-orange + contour → edgy warmth
• Plum + contour → evening editorial
• Pale pink + bronzer → fresh, day-ready look

Application order:

1. Foundation (light layer)
2. Cream bronzer/contour
3. Cream blush
4. Concealer
5. Set concealer
6. Powder bronzer/contour
7. Powder blush

This layering ensures dimension without heaviness, matte centre with luminous high points, and a face that reads cohesive from every angle.

5. Quick Tips for Harmony

• Match blush intensity with your eye look. Soft eyes = slightly stronger blush; dramatic eyes = soft blush to maintain balance.
• Stick to one colour family per vibe for cohesiveness.
• Layer lightly and build, rather than overloading powder — it keeps the skin alive.
• Use a setting spray after blending your creams and liquids, and after setting your liquids and creams with powder to remove that powdery look after setting all your creams.

A picture of me wearing makeup taken from my laptop.

💋 Lips: Signature and Statement Combos

Inspired by Uche Natori and Khaya Mhleli’s lip artistry and Naledi Kekana’s editorial approach, I layer liners, matte lipsticks, and glosses to create multidimensional effects — from soft black girl nude gradients to striking purple or metallic statements. Mikai McDermott, Chelsea Uchenna, Danessa Myricks and Pat McGrath’s daring editorial combinations encourage me to pair black bases with metallic shadows or layered glosses for high-impact looks.

After sculpting, eyes and base are complete, it’s time for the final flourish — lips that tie the entire look together. For me, lips are more than color; they are mood, balance, and intentional artistry. Whether you’re going for everyday warmth, black girl nude gradients, or bold editorial drama, the right combination of liner, lipstick, and gloss transforms a face.

1. Black Girl Nude Gradient — Soft, Lived-In Chic

• Liner: MAC Caviar first on the outermost edges, and then Chestnut in the innermost edges (high-end, R385, ARC/Edgars). Drugstore alternatives are the Essence Cosmetics Kajal Eyeliner (R25 at Dis-Chem) and the L.A. Girl Eyeliner Pencil in the shade Deep Brown (R110 at Dis-Chem)
• Lipstick: Essence 8H Matte Liquid Lipstick in 03 Soft Beige in the centre (R57, Clicks/Dis-Chem)
• Gloss (optional): Essence Cosmetics Clear Gloss (R40, Dis-Chem) or the same brand in the shade Milky Way (also R40, Dis-Chem)
• Base Pairing: Bronzer-heavy base
• Eye Pairing: Velvet Study or Bronze Frequency
• Why it works: Warm chestnut liner creates depth, nude lipstick softens, gloss gives life — perfect for natural but polished looks.

This lip combo paired with a smokey eye? Chef’s kiss

2. Brown Lip + Gloss Combo — Subtle Warmth

• Liner: Maybelline Lifter Liner in Cross The Line (R120, Clicks)
• Lipstick: Maybelline SuperStay Vinyl Ink 135 Fearless (R250, Clicks/Dis-Chem)
• Gloss: Fenty Gloss Bomb Hot Chocolate (R565, ARC/Edgars), or Maybelline Lifter Gloss in the shade 29 Toast (R190 at Dis-Chem)
• Base Pairing: Bronzer-heavy or subtle contour
• Eye Pairing: Bronze Frequency or Smoky Whisper
• Why it works: Warm-toned brown enhances natural warmth; gloss adds dimension for everyday glam.

3. Purple-Pink Glossy Combo — Playful & Bold

• Liner: MAC Nightmoth (R385 at ARC/Edgars Beauty) or L.A. Girl Vamp (R110 at Dis-Chem)
• Lipstick: Revlon Colorstay Satin Ink 031 Pink Duchess (R250, Clicks/Dis-Chem)
• Gloss: Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Fuchsia Flex (R565, ARC/Edgars) or Maybelline Lifter Gloss in the shade 25 Taffy (R190 at Dis-Chem)
• Base Pairing: Contour-based sculpting
• Eye Pairing: Smoky Plum or Dare You Pop
• Why it works: Deep liner anchors, amethyst adds vibrancy, glossy topcoat keeps lips juicy and editorial.

4. Black Lip — Full Editorial / Statement

• Liner: Essence Black Kajal (R25, Clicks/Dis-Chem)
• Lipstick: L.A. Girl Lipstick in Raven (R120, Dis-Chem)
• Gloss (optional): Clear gloss for shine or metallic overlay for editorial
• Base Pairing: Contour-heavy, dramatic sculpt
• Eye Pairing: Metallic Crush or Artistic Black Base
• Why it works: Perfect for runway/editorial; metallic eyes or bold liner completes the avant-garde aesthetic.

(The lip also gets so much edge when you pair it with dark eyeshadow and blonde/faux bleached eyebrows.)

A picture of me wearing editorial eyeshadow and black lipstick

5. Red Lip — Classic Power

• Liner Options: MAC Caviar, Nightmoth, or the cult classic, Chestnut (R385 each at ARC/Edgars Beauty), Deep Brown L.A. Girl, or Vamp L.A. Girl (R110 each at Dis-Chem)
• Lipstick: L’Oréal Paris Infallible Le Chocolat Matte 864 (R250, Clicks/Dis-Chem)
• Gloss (optional): Essence Cosmetics Lip Gloss in the shade Sweet Dreams (R40 at Dis-Chem)
• Base Pairing: Can work with either bronzer or contour, depending on warmth
• Eye Pairing: Smoky Whisper or Metallic Crush
• Why it works: A strong red anchored with liner elevates elegance; while gloss can soften it for the daytime, or intensify it for the nighttime

6. Purple Lip — Creative & Editorial

• Liner: MAC Nightmoth (R385 at ARC/Edgars Beauty)
• Lipstick: Revlon Colorstay Satin Ink in the shade 036 Royal Amethyst (R250 at Dis-Chem)
• Gloss: Essence Cosmetics Gloss in the shade Milky Way (R40 at Dis-Chem) or Passion Pro Lip Gloss in the shade Isla (R50 at Dis-Chem)
• Base Pairing: Contour-based sculpt
• Eye Pairing: Smoky Plum or Artistic Black Base
• Why it works: A statement for those confident in color — pairs with cooler contouring to prevent clash.

7. Neutral/Brown Lip — Subtle Day-to-Night

• Liner: L.A. Girl Eyeliner Pencil in the shade Deep Brown (R110 at Dis-Chem) or Maybelline Lifter Liner in the shade Cross The Line (R122 at Dis-Chem)
• Lipstick: Maybelline Vinyl Ink 135 Fearless (R250 at Dis-Chem)
• Gloss: Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Heat in the shade Hot Chocolate (R565 at ARC), Maybelline Lifter Gloss in the shade 29 Toast (R190 at Dis-Chem), or Essence Cosmetics Clear Gloss (R40 at Dis-Chem)
• Base Pairing: Bronzer-heavy
• Eye Pairing: Velvet Study or Bronze Frequency
• Why it works: An understated lip for daily wear, easily transitions to evening with a metallic shadow accent.

Editorial Notes:

• For editorial looks, I often use metallic eyeshadow over a black lip base (L.A. Girl Raven Lipstick lined with MAC Caviar Lip Pencil) to create high-impact contrast.
• Lipsticks and liners are layered lightly and blended for seamless gradients.
• Gloss is optional, depending on whether I want matte drama or juicy shine.

💡 Pro Tip: Always consider undertone matching with base (bronzer = warmer lips, contour = cooler lips) to maintain cohesion across the face.

🔒 Finishing Touches: Setting Sprays & the Lock-In Ritual

Following the discipline of Sam Fine, Danessa Myricks and Kevyn Aucoin, I set and lock each look with sprays to ensure every layer — from shadow to blush to lips — lasts without compromising texture or luminosity.

After eyes, base, sculpting, and lips, the final step isn’t an afterthought — it’s the invisible force field that ensures every meticulously applied layer stays put, from sunrise to sunset.

1. Early-Stage Setting: Pre-Foundation Mist

Even before foundation touches the skin, I lightly mist with a setting spray:

• Drugstore: Rimmel London Multitasker Setting Spray (R170, Clicks/Dis-Chem)
• High-End: Fenty Beauty YouMist Makeup-Extending Setting Spray (R690, ARC/Edgars)

Why? It preps the skin for primer, enhances hydration without heaviness, and provides subtle adhesion for foundation. Think of it as the first invisible layer of armour — lightweight, intentional, and completely transformative.

2. Primer & Layering

After misting, I apply primer (Rimmel London Matte or Estée Lauder Double Wear) in thin, deliberate layers, allowing 2–3 minutes between applications. This prevents foundation from pilling and ensures that every layer of colour, contour, and blush adheres seamlessly.

3. Lock-In Ritual: Post-Makeup Sprays

Once the makeup is complete — eyes defined, lips glossy or matte, and sculpting perfected — I seal the masterpiece with the final lock-in sprays:

• L’Oréal Paris Infallible 3 Second Magic Setting Mist (R300, Clicks/Dis-Chem)
• Flawless Ivy Fixing Spray (R150 to R200 at various independent distributors)
• Kryolan Fixing Spray (approx. R560 at Kryolan)

These sprays aren’t just functional; they are philosophical. They transform a look from “applied makeup” to “enduring artistry.” A light mist, held at arm’s length, covers the face evenly, locking powders, pigments, and creams without adding weight. And you don’t have to use all of them; choose what works for you based on preference and budget

4. Editorial Notes & Philosophy

• Mist in short bursts, letting the skin absorb naturally.
• If heading into heat, humidity, or a long day, the Kryolan Fixing Spray acts as a final safeguard, ensuring your bronzer, contour, blush, and metallic shadows don’t migrate.
• Layering light sprays over a well-prepped base maintains luminosity where desired and matte control where needed — perfect for your signature matte centre, luminous perimeter aesthetic.

Fun reminder: Like every other step in this routine, patience is key. Rushing sprays or skipping drying time undermines hours of careful work. Think of each mist as the final stroke in a painting — subtle, deliberate, and transformational.

✨ Closing Reflection: Artistry, Identity, and Empowerment

And just like that, we’ve navigated the full landscape of my makeup universe — from hydrating cleansers to luminous powders, soft glam eyes to editorial metallics, and nude gradients to bold black lips. Each step, product, and brush stroke is intentional, a small act of artistry that transforms a routine into a ritual.

For me, makeup is more than technique; it is identity, armour, and celebration. As a black transfeminine individual, I initially learned makeup as a survival skill, a way to navigate a world that judged me before it even recognised me. Today, it has evolved into empowerment and self-expression, a medium through which I tell my story, control my narrative, and craft a reflection that aligns with how I feel inside.

People have been begging me for a base tutorial for years, and while I promise one day I’ll film it (but again, that day is not today), this written blueprint shares how I think about, build, and harmonise my makeup in a way that’s technical, intentional, and repeatable.

Beauty, for me, isn’t about perfection. It’s about balance, patience, and intentionality. Matte centres meet luminous perimeters. Cream bronzers meet powder locks. Eyes dictate the mood, lips define the statement. Every product has a reason, every step a purpose, and every finish a philosophy: to enhance, not mask; to play, not compete; to create, not copy.

My journey and artistry are inspired by exceptional talent both locally and globally. Locally, I draw inspiration from Khaya Mhleli, Nkuley Masemola, Naledi Kekana, Lesedi Phathela, Bontle Selokoma, Ponahalo Mojapelo, and Thabo Rathaba — artists/friends/mutuals/influencers whose work celebrates Black beauty, creativity, and bold expression. Internationally, I look to Chelsea Uchenna, Uche Natori, Mikai McDermott, Dame Pat McGrath, Sam Fine, Rihanna (whose groundbreaking Fenty Beauty work reshaped the industry), Kevyn Aucoin, and Danessa Myricks — trailblazers who have taught me that innovation and individuality know no bounds.

As you experiment with Fenty Beauty, Estée Lauder, Maybelline, Essence, MAC, and all the palettes and glosses I’ve detailed, remember that your choices are your signature. Mix bronzer with contour, try metallic eyes with black lips, or layer nude gradients for effortless sophistication. Play, build, adjust, and find what resonates with your personality, your mood, and your story — because makeup is art, and your face is the canvas.

And finally — keep your brushes clean, your layers light, your skin prepped, and your confidence high. Whether you’re browsing Clicks, Dis-Chem, Edgars Beauty, or ARC, every swipe, tap, and blend is part of your personal narrative, crafted in color, light, and texture.

💄 Your canvas, your rules, your story — inspired by those who’ve paved the way, and reimagined by you.

Love, Kabelo Nchabeleng (enbyfatale_)