Myanmar: How do I Turn the Flash Off? (2016)

The silhouettes of thousands of pagodas in the mist for as far as the eye could see, made only visible by the rising sun. That’s what I would first like you to imagine before reading further. Sounds magical, doesn’t it? It’s a mental image I will remember forever. Not that I have much choice in the matter, there are no actual decent photographs of this once in a lifetime experience.

Bagan, Myanmar (2016) — Photos by author

A couple of weeks before venturing to Burma, I had treated myself to a new Nikon camera. You know, one of those fancy expensive ones with a big lens! It was my first ‘real camera’, a real step forward in my travel photography (so I thought), but I stupidly had not taken the time to learn how to use it.

There I was, 5am on top of an 800-year-old ancient Burmese structure in the middle of Myanmar, watching one of the best sunrises I had ever witnessed, and I couldn’t turn the bloody flash off! I frantically changed the settings, turned it on and off more times than I can count, and even tried to cover up the light with my thumb, but no luck! After 10 minutes of trying (and failing), I shoved the ‘useless stupid thing’ into my backpack and sat quietly enjoying the spectacle the old-fashioned way, with the occasional snap taken from my Samsung phone, like the good little millennial I was.

My trip to Burma (also known as Myanmar) had started several days before in ­­­most people’s entry point into the country; Yangon. I was accompanied with a good friend I had met teaching in Thailand a few years ago. We had a plan — to start south and make our way north! Armed with fresh Burmese visas we had purchased on Khao San road, our plan was relatively simple — to see some beautiful sites!

Stepping into Yangon for the first time was like entering a vibrant tapestry of culture and history. The city exuded a unique blend of old-world charm and a burgeoning modernity, with its grand colonial architecture juxtaposed against bustling markets and lively street vendors. The Shwedagon Pagoda, with its golden spires, stood as a testament to Myanmar’s deep spiritual heritage, casting a serene aura over the city. Whilst there, my friend and I were swarmed with people trying to take their photos with us, at this point, I had been living and travelling Asia for years, so I was used to it, but still loved that ‘rockstar’ feeling just as much as the first time it happened. The people, warm and welcoming, wore smiles that seemed to mirror the city’s own infectious energy. Yangon was a revelation, a city that resonated with history, spirituality, and the promise of a dynamic future.

Even though I found Yangon to have a certain charm about it, it wasn’t a city I’d want to spend longer than a couple of days in. I think especially at 26, there wasn’t much to do at night. We did find a very out of place British pub, not that we were complaining, that must be the local for diplomats and embassy employees, but aside from that, the nighttime didn’t compare to other major cities in Southeast Asia. After 3 days, my mate and I decided over a “proper pint” in the pre-mentioned pub to take the 8-and-a-half-hour bus journey to Bagan. Of course, in true Southeast Asia style, that bus journey took much longer than the previously stated 8 and a half hours! Time is nothing but numbers to some of these bus companies.

Bagan, an ancient city in Myanmar, is renowned for its stunning landscape dotted with over 2,000 well-preserved pagodas and temples. These architectural marvels, built between the 9th and 13th centuries, stand as a testament to the rich cultural and religious history of the region. Each pagoda in Bagan is a unique masterpiece, characterized by its distinctive design, intricate carvings, and elegant spires that reach towards the sky. Some of the most notable pagodas include the Shwezigon Pagoda, a revered pilgrimage site, and the Ananda Temple, known for its magnificent architecture and serene atmosphere. The pagodas in Bagan not only serve as places of worship but also offer visitors a mesmerizing glimpse into the past, making it an awe-inspiring destination for history enthusiasts and spiritual seekers alike.

Our accommodation was not at all Burmese though, or rich in any Asian history. We stayed in an Italian run hostel (yes — Italian) in Old Bagan. It was unusual, but despite its lack of authentic features, it was close to perfect — hammocks, chill areas, a central location and FREE PASTA — yes — FREE PASTA! It was the perfect base to explore the square miles of archaeological gems around us. Definitely recommend if you’re looking for accommodation (I don’t need to drop the name, it’s the only Italian one in the whole area, and probably will be for a long while!)

Bagan, Myanmar (2016) — Photos by author

My highlight of my time in Bagan was a private sunset river cruise down the Irrawaddy River. Drinking coffee gently floating down, and then back up the river as the sun turned the whole sky orange — it was truly spectacular. I felt an otter drifting down a river, so if you’ve ever wanted to feel like an otter.

Followed closely by renting scooters and driving aimlessly in any direction to explore like someone from a Nat Geo magazine. It was so freeing to full up the tank, zoom around and explore the historic site, experiencing roads and visiting structures that are not possible by dirt road on the likes of the Thai islands and in Vietnam. The breeze as you travel is also unmatchable, it’s so refreshing and relaxing. Don’t relax too much though, you are driving…

Despite my technical mishap, I fell in love with Myanmar… for the most part! I’m also grateful I had the chance to explore the country while I had the opportunity, as it’s unfortunately no longer possible to do so due to the current unstable political landscape. So, if any of this sounded interesting to you, make sure you save this for a future era after all this political turmoil!

Finally, we took the 5-hour bus ride, (really 8 hours) along the road to Mandalay…

This was taken from my upcoming book: Nomad’s Wallet — A Journey Begins

[embed]Nomad's Wallet: A Journey begins In these pages, you'll laugh (and maybe cringe) at the ups, downs, and bizarre twists of the journey-like buying a…nomadswallet.wordpress.com