Letter Three: The Taste of Home

Pict by Pinterest.com

After traveling far from home, we miss home, especially our mother’s cooking. However, it is not only our mother’s cooking that we miss. Ternate cuisine also leaves a lasting impression on anyone who has tasted it. Ternate cuisine is not just about filling your stomach, but also about the stories behind each spice. Rich in spices and seafood, it reflects the fertile land and abundant sea. First, there is Gohu Ikan, a dish often referred to as “Ternate style sashimi.” Fresh fish is the main ingredient of Gohu, using skipjack tuna, which is cut into small pieces and mixed with chili, shallots, basil leaves, and lemon juice. As is often said about sashimi, Gohu does not need to be cooked. This traditional dish is usually served at various events such as weddings, gatherings, celebrations, and even to warmly welcome guests. This dish is usually accompanied by boiled cassava or bananas to enhance the enjoyment of Gohu.

Pict by wikipedia

Besides Gohu, the most distinctive food in Ternate is Papeda, commonly known as popeda. This dish is made from sago cooked in warm water until thick. Its thick texture may make people from outside the region reluctant to try it for the first time. Papeda is served with a yellow sauce made from skipjack tuna or tongkol fish cooked with turmeric, lemongrass, and basil leaves. Papeda cannot be eaten with a spoon because of its slippery and thick texture. It must be eaten with chopsticks, which are twisted around to form a roll before being dipped into the fish sauce. Its soft and savory taste is best enjoyed warm. However, not everyone’s palate can handle this dish. I grew up there and it suits my taste buds, unlike the rest of my family who even now find its texture unpleasant. This makes me the only one in the house who likes papeda.

by pinterest

Then there is Ikan Fufu, which is smoked fish whose aroma can be smelled from a distance. The smoking process takes quite a long time, as the fish is slowly smoked over hot coals until it is dry and golden in color, then stored in woven banana leaves. This dish is the only one that is often sent to me when I travel to Yogyakarta and miss the food of Ternate. The word fufu means “smoked,” and this tradition has existed since the spice trade in the 15th century. Ikan Fufu originated from the people of Ternate, who had to preserve fish so that it would last longer when transported by ship. Even today, fufu fish can be found in traditional markets. Eating Ikan fufu served with Dabu-Dabu Roa adds to the flavor. Dabu-Dabu Roa is a processed product made from Julung fish that is turned into a chili sauce. This spicy and smoky chili sauce, typical of North Maluku, was created from the influence of the Minahasa people who came to trade in Maluku, then adapted to local tastes.

by Highend Magazine

In addition to food, Ternate also has a traditional drink called Air Guraka. This drink has been known since the time of the Ternate Sultanate. Its main ingredients are ginger and palm sugar, which are used to warm the bodies of fishermen and clove plantation workers. Air Guraka is often served during traditional ceremonies or to welcome guests. It contains walnuts, which are a distinctive feature of Air Guraka. Walnuts are considered a symbol of prosperity because they are one of the most valuable agricultural products, just like other spices. Unlike Guraka, Spiced Coffee is made from cloves and nutmeg. Ternate is rich in cloves and nutmeg, which led the Portuguese and Dutch colonizers to try to monopolize the spice trade through the VOC. The people of Ternate began adding ginger and cinnamon to coffee, making it more fragrant and long-lasting. This tradition continues to this day. Especially the aroma of coffee often wafting from stalls near the port makes Spice Coffee a morning drink before starting a new day.

Pict by RRI

Finally, there is Nasi Jaha. This dish is a traditional food from the Ternate community, which uses bamboo as a cooking tool. Similar to Ikan fufu, nasi jaha is made using bamboo as provisions for sailors so that it can last a long time and remain fragrant even after days. The rice is cooked with coconut milk, lemongrass, and pandan leaves, then baked in bamboo until cooked. To this day, Nasi Jaha remains a staple breakfast dish for the people of Ternate.

Every region has its own unique flavors and culinary history. Ternate, with its natural beauty and abundance of spices, is no exception. These flavors remind me that no matter where I am, I will never forget home.