Mummy at Gue

Kaza: My First Solo Travel

After my retirement in March 2022, my kids inspired me to focus on travel, trekking, and health. In April 2022, I planned my first solo trip to a far-away place — Kaza — with many fears in mind. Although I had traveled solo quite a lot during my college and university days, that was a different time, a different age.

Kaza is a small town in the remote Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh. One can reach here from two routes: one from Kinnaur Valley via Shimla and the other from Lahaul Valley via Manali. I went via Kinnaur Valley.

I started my journey from Bikaner at 6:45 pm by bus, reaching Chandigarh at 6 am. Without wasting a moment, I caught another bus to Shimla and then onwards to Narkanda, where I halted for the first night.

At Narkanda, I trekked about 7 km to the Hatu Peak, the highest point in the region. The small temple at the top is believed to be connected with the Pandavas during their exile. Narkanda is famous for its skiing slopes in winter and apple orchards.

The next morning, I boarded a bus for Reckong Peo, reaching around 5 pm. The majestic Kinnaur Kailash peak is visible from here, while the beautiful village of Kalpa sits just above the town. From Reckong Peo, only one HRTC bus departs daily for Kaza. Luckily, I got a seat!

An Unforgettable Bus Ride

The bus ride from Reckong Peo to Kaza was an adventure in itself — narrow roads, the Sutlej River flowing dangerously deep on one side, and rocks scattered on the road. After the Khab Sangam, where the Sutlej and Spiti rivers meet, the bus followed the Spiti River, passing through Nako and Tabo before finally reaching Kaza.Because the bus halts for meals are long, I became friendly with younger solo travelers on the way, and later in Kaza we stayed together — going to different destinations, sharing taxis, and enjoying food.

I’ll never forget the thrill, fear, and beauty of that journey.

Life in Kaza and Beyond

Kaza is the coldest town in India. January is the harshest month with temperatures going down to –30°C. Even in April, the nights were –5°C, and I witnessed snowfall at Komic village, which is supposed to be the highest motorable village in the world. This place felt very cool, lonely, and calm.

Gue is another important spot, though farther away. It is, I believe, the only place in India where one can see a 500-year-old mummy. It was said to be found by the ITBP while digging for a border post near China. This region is known for its stark mountains, Buddhist culture, and vast monasteries. At Langza, the breathtaking statue of Lord Buddha is worth watching. At Hikkim village, the world’s highest post office stands at 14,400 ft. I wrote three postcards from this post office to my native place Bikaner, but only one was received by a friend. The Chicham Bridge — the highest in Asia at 13,596 ft — connects Chicham and Kibber villages. Looking down from it, you see a gorge nearly 1,000 ft deep, called Samba Lamba Nallah.

At Komic village

At Hikkim

Chicham Bridge

At Kibber village

My Thoughts on Solo Travel

This was my first solo travel after retirement. Since then, I have done many other journeys and treks, with many more to come. What I feel is that such solo travels cultivate a deep sense of empowerment and independence, as I am fully responsible for everything. They have given me new friends, mostly much younger than me, who share their views and motivate me to continue.

During such travels, I enjoy full control over schedule, destinations, and spontaneous changes. These experiences have boosted my self-confidence a lot. Yes, sometimes I feel loneliness and a small fear for safety in one corner of my heart, but that is natural. And yes, for personal photos I have to depend on others — but most of the time, I’ve found good youngsters to capture wonderful memories for me.

-AG