Letter Seven: A Bite of Lombok

While in Lombok, there is one thing that can complement your experience of getting to know a place, not only through its scenery but also through its cuisine. The word “lombok” in Javanese means chili, which means spicy. Lombok itself also has foods that are very distinctive with a spicy flavor. One of the typical Lombok foods that I have tried and is also on my list of recommendations is Ayam Taliwang.

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Taliwang Chicken is a specialty dish from West Nusa Tenggara that has become an iconic food of Lombok. The name Taliwang comes from a kingdom that existed on the island of Sumbawa. This specialty dish has been around since around 1630 AD during the war between two kingdoms, namely the Selaparang kingdom, an Islamic kingdom located in Lombok, and the Karangasem kingdom located in Bali. When troops were sent from the Taliwang kingdom to Lombok to help the Selaparang kingdom, the Taliwang kingdom’s cooks served a spicy chicken dish, which became the origin of Ayam Taliwang. Unexpectedly, when the Karangasem Kingdom tasted the dish and expressed their appreciation for the food prepared by the Taliwang Kingdom’s cook, peace between the two kingdoms was gradually achieved through the diplomacy of this Taliwang chicken dish cooked by the Taliwang Kingdom’s cook. Today, Ayam Taliwang is a favorite specialty of Lombok, a grilled chicken dish made from young free-range chicken and seasoned with dried red chili peppers, red onions, garlic, tomatoes, fried shrimp paste, galangal, palm sugar, salt, and other spices. The spiciness of Ayam Taliwang is felt from the first bite, but the flavor will leave you craving more.

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Then there is Plecing Kangung, a simple dish that can also be served alongside Ayam Taliwang. In Lombok, kangkung is a crop that is often cultivated by the local community. Usually, the people of Lombok grow kangkung in small streams and rice fields that require a lot of water. Plecing Kangkung is made by boiling the kangkung briefly to keep it green and crisp, then pouring spicy tomato sambal over it and adding lime juice. Plecing Kangkung is usually accompanied by bean sprouts, long beans, and grated coconut. Since this dish is mainly made from vegetables, it is naturally rich in vitamins.

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When I attended a traditional event hosted by the Lombok community, the food that caught my attention was Sate Rembiga, known as Lombok Spicy Satay. The word Rembiga is taken from the name of the area where the satay originated, namely the village of Rembiga. The word ‘Rembiga’ is derived from the word Rembug, which is associated with a palace or hut as a gathering place for royalty and extended family members. The skill of making satay first appeared through the hands of the relatives of King Pejanggik who lived in Rembiga Village, Selaparang. The tender beef has a sweet and spicy taste. The recipe for this satay has been passed down from their grandmothers who used to sell it at the market in the old days. Nowadays, this satay is often served at every event in Lombok.

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Finally, there is Nasi Balap Puyung, which originated in Puyung Village, Central Lombok Regency, West Nusa Tenggara. This dish has been around since the 1970s and was first made famous by a legendary vendor named Mbak Inaq Esun. Nasi Balap Puyung consists of white rice, shredded chicken, potato chips, soybeans, and stir-fried long beans. The soybeans are usually replaced with roasted peanuts. Nasi Balap Puyung is always served on a plate lined with banana leaves. However, it is also possible that rice paper is used as a liner. Regardless of the liner used, Nasi Balap Puyung is still worth enjoying without losing any of its flavor.

The word “Balap” comes from the habit of traders who rush or race to sell rice in the morning. They carry their goods in large baskets and take quick steps to the market to deliver the food to customers, and that is where people started calling it Nasi Balap. What makes Nasi Balap unique, aside from its taste, is its simple yet unique appearance, wrapped in a cone-shaped package, similar to the rice wrappers of the past. Everything is neatly arranged when opened, revealing layers of white rice, shredded chicken with red sauce, dried tempeh, and a little abon. This cone-shaped package symbolizes the simplicity of Lombok, which is not luxurious but full of meaning and flavor.