The (Fashion) Game is On!

A guide to the get the look of your favourite detective from BBC’s Sherlock

by MAITREYA PENKAR

23–09–18

BBC’s Sherlock has come to a probable end. The 7 year long-running TV series’ end has saddened fans from all over the globe. While fans speculate a return for the series, let’s have a look at the wardrobe of the iconic character. Sherlock’s sartorial elegance is envied by men — and, of course, admired by women — everywhere. It has made sweeping greatcoats and classic shooting jackets iconic.

Costume designer Sarah Arthur’s choices are planned meticulously. The styling choices she’s made for Sherlock and Watson support and enhance everything we see them do, say, and think. Here’s our guide to cop the detective look.

That Coat:

We suspect the show’s costume designer, Sarah Arthur, is tired of being asked about Sherlock’s dark grey, double breasted Belstaff Milford coat. It is made from pure Irish wool tweed bonded with a sophisticated, ultra-light microporous film, to make it waterproof without altering the natural qualities of comfort and breathability. For some reason Belstaff no longer make that style, so fans spend a lot of time scouring the high street for good alternatives. John Lewis did produce a good version for their own upmarket menswear label, John Lewis & Co which sold out almost immediately.

It is a fine coat, worn with attitude. If you’re still after something similar on the high street, you can nab this Reiss dark double-breasted coat in the sale. Wear it with the collar up and never buttoned like Benedict.

The Scarf:

Where the coat goes, the scarf follows. It is always worn in a simple European loop. This tie is extremely quick to do and like Sherlock’s coat, indicates an inattentive carelessness; It creates bulk at the neckline which makes it ideal to pair with a closed or buttoned coat, but hangs stiffly at the neck if the coat is left unbuttoned. Sherlock is rarely without his trusty navy Paul Smith scarf to keep him warm in Steven Moffat’s eternal winter — we think the blue brings out his eyes. Ahem, anyway, you can still get the real deal at Paul Smith but House of Fraser also has this wool navy scarf in the sale which would work too.

The Suits:

Unless he’s skulking about the Baker Street flat in his Pajamas and dressing gown, Sherlock is always in a slim-fitting bespoke suit. The suit is Sherlock’s uniform, and he never strays from it. Instead of going for traditional tweed three-piece suits, as worn by past screen iterations of the famous detective, Sarah Arthur chose to keep Sherlock modern with two-button, slim-cut black and light grey suits from Savile Row tailor, Spencer Hart. Although his shirts and suits are clearly tailored, he never wears a tie. Ever. Ties are formal and old-fashioned, but also quite commonly paired with full, tailored suits.. His open collar and lack of tie illustrates that Sherlock feels above “common” people. Although it could be an indicator of forgetfulness or laziness, it’s more likely that Arthur keeps Sherlock’s collar undone and tie-free to support his willful and rebellious nature.

You can currently pick up a Spencer Hart tuxedo suit in a sale Mr Porter, but Zara also do simple, modern suits that would work, without the designer price-tag.

The Shirts:

Although Sherlock wears several different shirts throughout the series, it appears to be ‘THE Purple Shirt’, which has captured people’s imaginations — and happens to be the most-costly of his dress shirts too. Again, Benedict doesn’t have much meat on his bones so Arthur opts for slim-cut Dolce & Gabbana 100% cotton shirts that fit his frame. Note: Benedict doesn’t wear a tie and always has the top button undone.

You can get a good imitation from the Debenhams St George by Duffer range now.

The Shoes:

The footwear of choice for the on-the-move detective is a Saint Laurent Oxford shoe, which has a long line and rounded toe. However, even Arthur was forced to pick up a few cheaper pairs from Poste as Benedict kept wearing the original pair out in filming.

The Dressing Gown:

This is one bit of luxury all Sherlock fans should have, perfect for deducing round the house in on a rainy Sunday afternoon. Now, you’ve saved all that money on the rest of your wardrobe, why not splash out on Sherlock’s actual silk robe from Derek Rose? This Woburn one featured in a brief flash back in the Sign of Three episode. Made from pure silk with a satin stripe design, it features a shawl collar, breast pocket and two side pockets.

The Watch:

Rotary Watches Ltd was established in the Swiss city of La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1895, with an importation deal leading to Britain becoming the company’s biggest market. In 1940 Rotary won the contract to supply time pieces to the British Army, which thanks to the military draft of the Second World War put their watches into nearly every household in the country. Today, Rotary remains one of the ‘superbrands’ in the United Kingdom.

A simple understated design, the Gents Vintage Stainless Steel Watch GS02424–21 is a great example of the Rotary watch range, featuring a stain-less steel case body and a buckled black leather strap. Although this model is no longer in production, you can get an imitation at a thrift shop near you for cheap rates.

THE HAT:

If you’re wondering, “What is a deerstalker hat?” The *deerstalker hat* is commonly known as a rounded cap made of six or eight triangular panels sewn together and is made of a light or heavy wool tweed, or cloth. It’s known for its side flaps (visors) that can be worn down and tied under the chin to protect the ears in cold weather and high winds or they can be tied up above the crown to keep them out of the way when not in use.

Nothing is more widely associated and iconic to Sherlock Holmes than the Deerstalker hat. In the Series 2 finale, Sherlock Holmes was gifted a deerstalker by Detective Inspector Lestrade as thanks for helping to solve a case. Sherlock clearly indicates his dislike for the hat, but is urged to wear it by his sidekick John Watson, who later declares it is ‘no longer a deerstalker. That’s a Sherlock Holmes hat’.

You can get this iconic hat from Lock & Co. Hatters.

Unlike many television series that use character costuming as an excuse to parade gorgeous duds across the screen, “Sherlock” is remarkably spare and utilitarian in its choices.