A Cruise Stop in Monaco

Sailing along the coastline at dawn © A.Harrison

We sailed in just after dawn. Buildings the same colour as the hillside stretched along the coastline, one town blending into the next. Monaco is a principality of hills. These were largely barren rocks the colour of sand, with a covering of scrub. From the water I could see the coastal road and, as we neared Monte Carlo, the three corniches, with small cars speeding along them. Catching a tender to shore, dolphins came to play beside us as fish skimmed across the surface of the water.

Monaco is a strange place to visit. Firstly, it is a place of money. Serious money, palpable even when still at sea. The harbour is filled with yachts — the type which take a crew of twenty to run when sitting in the harbour. Everything is sparkling and clean, with crewmen washing down the decks as we sailed past, as smaller boats docked alongside, delivering supplies.

Catching a tender; Monaco from the water; the roofline of the casino, plus some old houses © A. Harrison

Monaco is also a beautiful place, especially up around the old area of Monaco-Ville. Wandering around the alleyways is a bit like wandering through a make-believe playground, with quaint streets and toy soldiers with their pristine white uniforms. The only other people I saw were tourists. Somewhere behind these buildings exists the real world where every day Monégasques live, but like a parallel universe it lay totally hidden from my view.

Aside from a few periods of annexation by France, Monaco has been under the Grimaldi rule since 1297. Monte Carlo especially has long been associated with glamour. Its casino (complete with a Suicide Terrace) is packed with monied tourists, and is a playground to holidaying royalty and the seriously wealthy, and even wealthier locals — with the country thriving on gambling and tourism, Monégasques do not pay tax.

Despite the barren hillsides, Monte Carlo is filled with greenery. Along with a few small parks, trees are squeezed into any spare spot, and many of the buildings are covered with vertical gardens. No space is wasted in town — the real estate is far too expensive.

The backstreets on Monaco, with a grand police station © A. Harrison

From the port, I caught the bus to the palace. It is possible to walk up a flight of (very steep) stairs from the port to Monaco Ville, but with the bus winding through the town I managed to have a tour of Monte Carlo as well. As an added bonus, the driver had no concept of braking, and so we were treated to a grand-prix style tour.

Cafes stretched along gracious boulevards, and the squares were lined with expensive shops. I could barely afford to look in the windows. I forewent the lure of the casino and continued to the Palace. It’s in the heart of Monaco-Ville, perched on a promontory high above the port. The area here is simply picture-perfect; cobbled alleyways wind every which way, lined with quaint buildings, complete with flags fluttering. It is full of little tourist-type shops, cafes, and artisan shops, all perfect for window shopping.

Outside the palace © A. Harrison

From near the Palace a flight of stairs leads down from the Place du Palais to the cathedral and the Palais du Justice — the most beautiful police station I’ve ever seen. The cathedral is stunning, and filled with as much artwork as many a small gallery. There is a Pieta by the master artist Louis Brea from Nice (1500) , as well as some 16th C works, 12th C stained glass and a gilded wooden altar from the Spanish Renaissance. Soft light tumbles from the windows, blending elegantly with the white Carrara marble and the pillars of granite and porphyry. Dedicated to Saint Nicolas and the Immaculate Conception, the cathedral marks the first parish of Monaco, established in 1252.

The past rulers of Monaco are buried here, with Grace Kelly buried alongside her husband. Her tombstone is distinguished by the abundance of flowers.

Artwork inside the Cathedral © A. Harrison

Changing of the guard is a daily event outside the palace, and always attracts an abundance of tourists. It is impossible to miss; should you be anywhere in the vicinity there is a strong chance you’ll be caught out by the barricades blocking the streets. For a 10 minute ceremony La Place du Palais was impressively crowded. The guards are ridiculously cute, decked completely in white with gold tassels and pointed helmets. They marched from a building on the far side of the square to the palace, where a change took place, and then they marched back across the square and out of sight.

Dining is never a cheap option here, especially the closer you get to the centre of Monte Carlo. Yet for the price of a cup of coffee, I found a quiet place to sit on the balcony at Gloria Jeans and enjoy the stunning view.

Then, unfortunately, it was time to leave. Adieu, Monaco, until next time.

Changing of the guard © A. Harrison

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