Why Busan Claims the Best Pork Soup in Korea (And They’re Right)

Dwaeji-Gukbap (돼지국밥) and Suyuk (수육)

My partner, who is from Busan, had been talking about Dwaeji-Gukbap since we met. The legendary pork soup that was a part of her childhood and her city. I’d nodded along, the way you do when someone describes their hometown’s “best” anything. Food’s personal. I get it. But I didn’t get it.

When we arrived in Busan, we’d been indulging in street food, tteokbokki, mul tteok, and bibim dangmyeon, we just couldn’t resist walking past such inviting aromas. We haven’t stopped eating ever since arriving here.

Late into the evening, we were spoilt for choice, really. There were too many good options, but our bellies could only fit so much. We narrowed it down to Pork Soup (Dwaeji-Gukbap) or Raw Marinated Crab (Ganjang Gejang).

While we were pondering which to eat, a sudden cool spring breeze blew by. That’s when I knew my choice. I turned to my partner and exclaimed excitedly, “We’re already here; we must try Dwaeji-Gukbap. You and everyone else kept saying it’s an absolute must-try in Busan”. I remember her giggle and agree. And so we went.

The interior of Haeundae Obok Dwaeji-Gukbap

Twenty minutes later, I sat across from her in a Dwaeji Gukbap restaurant. I quickly came to notice that they have dedicated years to specialising in pork soup. Nothing else.

I lifted the spoon for my first sip.

And at that very moment, I understood why everyone said Pork Soup is an absolute must in Busan.

The Pork Soup and Busan Relationship

Busan’s pork soup was born from the wreckage of war. As an alternative to beef, pork bones were simmered for hours. Until the broth turned milky white and silky, extracting every possible nutrient, every possible flavour.

It speaks of the resilience of the people. During times when ingredients were sparse, Koreans innovated, and Dwaeji-Gukbap was born.

It was warm, kept hunger away and reminded of home.

As South Korea industrialised, pork became more accessible. There are now over 1,000 restaurants serving Dwaeji-Gukbap in Busan alone. And Seomyeon has an entire street dedicated to it.

Just speak to any Busan local. Everyone has a strong opinion on what’s the best. In my opinion, I’m jealous that people here are able to indulge in this luxury to their heart’s content.

The Experience

The bowl of soup comes steaming.

At first glance, the soup looks simple. Tender slices of pork, creamy-white and aromatic broth.

I did not expect it to be both rich and clear.

This reminded me of tonkotsu ramen. Forgive me for comparing. I agree that both are different in their own right. Tonkotsu is decadent. But this was different; the soup was rich (evident in the long simmering process) and delicate. I would not have imagined this flavour.

The Insider Secret: How to Indulge in Pork Soup

Take your time and thoroughly enjoy this experience.

First, sip the soup. Bite into the tender pork. Spoon some soup together with rice and top it off with some pork.

Some restaurants include fresh chives (buchu) with the pork soup. For the experience at Obok Dwaeji-Gukbap, they served it separately. Add as little or as much as you prefer. The chives add a mild sweetness when warmed with the soup.

Don’t forget to add the tiny pink fermented shrimp next (saeujeot). Adding this introduces a burst of savoury umami that just pairs so well with the soup. I prefer mine to have a stronger flavour of saeujeot and tend to add more.

Served sides included with the meal

Between every spoonful. Take a bite of raw chilli or onion together with ssamjang (fermented dipping sauce). Enjoy together with kimchi and seokbakji.

Towards the end, combine the last few spoonfuls of rice into the soup and mix it in. You’ll see some locals do this the moment they receive their meals. The rice will absorb all of the pork-infused, chive-sweetened, shrimp-umami’d soup.

We were so happy eating this meal.

The Restaurant

Haeundae’s Obok Dwaeji-Gukbap (해운대 오복돼지국밥) was founded in 1960, 7 years after the Korean War. It’s currently in its 3rd generation and continues to specialise in Pork Soup.

• Location: Haeundae-gu, Busan
• Naver Maps Link: https://naver.me/5WOQstf0
• Price: ₩11,000 per bowl (includes refillable sides and condiments).
• Hours: 24 hours

Best time to visit

Late night after drinks or brunch Dwaeji-gukbap is a great hangover cure. And in the evening for dinner.

This restaurant caters for solo diners, groups and couples. I saw office staff, family and students. This is the type of meal for everyone.

Haeundae’s Obok Dwaeji-Gukbap (해운대 오복돼지국밥)

What to order

We ordered pork soup (Dwaeji-Gukbap) and boiled pork slices (Suyuk).

Close

I have to admit, I’m with everyone on this. When you’re in Busan, you must eat pork soup. Savour it. It was, for me, a delightful first experience.

And after Busan, I hope you’ll remember taking your first sip of this wonderful pork soup and reminisce about the beautiful memory of this meal.

Haeundae’s Obok Dwaeji-Gukbap, gets 4/5 ⭐ from me. Definitely give the pork soup a try here.