Day Three - 100 Miles, 100 Years of History

We reached the halfway mark today after three days of walking, and the going was generally easier as the terrain improved. Some of the gig team had even recovered sufficiently to join us.

The day 3 team at today’s start position, Godrevy Point.

We had pushed an extra mile or so yesterday, passing Hayle sands where there used to be a “starfish” site in the second world war. These sites would have a system of lights and fires to make them look like cities that were being bombed, and were intended to act as decoys to draw German bombers away from their actual targets. When used in conjunction with blackouts in towns and cities they could prove quite effective, as most of the “follow-on” forces in the bombing raids would simply try to bomb where the leader’s bombs fell.

Looking back towards St Ives from Godrevy, with Hayle and Gwithian on the left.

The weather was being kind again, and we spend most of the day in bright sunshine. With sunscreen applied we set off on the first leg towards Portreath. Rounding the corner we passed Godrevy lighthouse, which I understand is now actually a day mark, with an LED panel of lights replacing the one that used to be in the lighthouse.

Godrevy lighthouse.

Shortly afterwards we were able to catch sight of some seals on a beach below us, quite undisturbed by the observers above. There were mercifully few climbs as the path kept to the top of the cliffs and we covered the ground quickly. A few ups and downs at the end were not enough to slow us down, and we continued to make good time despite a larger walking group.

Samphire Island, looking back towards Godrevy lighthouse in the distance.

It was interesting hearing first hand from the gig rowers about the challenges they faced during the crossing. Apparently the worst thing was being aboard the support vessel, which was good at inducing seasickness when rolling around in the swells. That said, the crew changes sounded pretty scary with the gig, RIB, and yacht all moving around so they were at different heights and gaps could open up without warning! I think they were thankful for the chance to walk on solid ground in the sunshine today.

Approaching Portreath; the white radome of RAF Portreath can be seen on the horizon.

As we rounded the last headland before descending into Portreath we could see RAF Portreath on the other side, with its distinctive radome. We were due to stop there to learn more of the history of the site, as it is closely tied to RAF St Mawgan today. The RAF personnel that work there tend to live at RAF St Mawgan, and we support the team in non-operational matters.

Climbing the road out of Portreath towards RAF Portreath.

We took a quick break in the town, with some indulging in a cold drink from the cafe, before climbing up to the perimeter fence of RAF Portreath, skirting round to the sea cliff before stopping to talk about its role over the years. Although it was a busy fighter, bomber, and ferry airfield during the second world war, it was never bombed. The airfield was actually opened by General Erhard Milch, Chief of Staff of the Luftwaffe, before the war when we were on better terms; the story is that he liked it so much he ordered that it shouldn’t be attacked so that he could use it after the invastion. Whether that is true or not is debatable, but it went unscathed at the time. Today it is a vital part of the integrated air defence of the UK, keeping track of any aircraft approaching from the south west.

Listening to the history of RAF Portreath.

We continued the journey on to Porthtowan and, although the climb out of Sally’s Bottom was pretty emotional for aching knees, continued to make good progress. The sun was still relentless, and we paused for some lunch and another cold drink. The original plan was to end the day here, but having made extra progress yesterday we decided to press on to Chapel Porth and finish there.

Porthtowan beach, and the track on the far side that would be our last climb from sea level of the day.

It was only a short hop over to Chapel Porth, about a mile, and still mid-afternoon on arrival. We didn’t want to press on too much, though, as we would be spoiling the walk for those joining on the last three days. The sun had been strong, and despite the suncream we could all feel that we had been exposed all day, so it was a wise decision to stop for the day and come back in the morning.

The forecast for the rest of the week isn’t looking as kind, so we could find the going a bit harder. The original plan for tomorrow was to reach Perranporth, but due to our progress and pace we were now looking at Penhale as a potential stopping point. We will see how we get on…