Konkan 18 Jan-25 Jan: Wheels, Waves & Long Walks

I have been wanting to explore Konkan for a while now. So, finally when the opportunity presented itself, I didn’t think twice — it was time. We planned a leisurely weeklong trip across Konkan to just chill & feel the Konkani vibe.

Konkan Road Trip

Day 1

We started from Kandivali, Mumbai @5:45am as opposed to our schedule departure time of 5:30am. The alarm didn’t go off or rather we slept through the first one is an acceptable excuse by now.

We took SCLR, eastern freeway, Atal Setu and Chirner exit to reach NH66. just to highlight, Chirner exit is a tricky one and can be missed easily so be on a look out, the road is also not in good condition but it does save 30min of your travel time.

Once we reached NH66, we took a quick break at hotel shri Sai Amantran to have their trademark batata wada which is too good and not to be missed. the washroom is Indian and reasonably clean (at least in early morning around 7:30am since we were probably one of the first customers there).

After the quick stop, we continued on NH66 till Sangameshwar.

In the beginning, the road was foggy and visibility was slightly compromised impacting our usual speed limit. There were times when the visibility was so low that we wondered if the sun has risen or the moon has not yet set. After an hour and a half of driving through mist, it finally cleared up.

As we neared Sangameshwar, there is a right turn for cars called Kond Asurde-Dingani road. It is a slightly narrow road with lot of twists and turns but quite scenic and pleasant to drive. Some parts of the road are still under construction so better to avoid during rains. We reached Ganpatipule hotel around 1pm. Of course, the room was not ready, so, we went far Bappa Darshan. Ganpatipule mandir is appx 1km from the hotel. Even though it was crowded, it was quite well managed and it took us appx 1hour to get some facetime with the almighty.

After the darshan, it was time to refuel. So, we had lunch and went back to hotel. we stayed at Westbay resort and spa. The architecture of the hotel has to be commended. We got an amazing sea view room. After check-in and some rest, we decided to go to the adjoined beach, which was secluded and not as crowded as Ganpatipule beach near the temple, for a walk and enjoyed the beautiful sunset. The quaint and peaceful beach sunset put me in a spiritual state, so, obviously, I had to go back to the temple. Luckily, we reached just in time for evening aarti @7pm followed by mahaprasad. The arrangement of mahaprasad hall was extremely well managed. Coming back to the hotel, we had a quick light dinner (corn cheese ball + beetroot cutlet + Mango Rhythm wine) and called it a day — a very lucky and joyful day, that kickstarted our vacation on a positive and joyful note.

Peaceful walk on the beach

Day 2

started with an early morning Darshan of Bappa. @6am, the temple was completely deserted sans few early rising devotees and temple workers. So, we got plenty of one-on-one time with Bappa to ask for his blessings. We also found out that it was first day of Maghi Ganpati, which felt like a divine coincidence. After spending some time in the temple, we collected mahaprasad ladu and left. Mahaprasad ladu is available from 6am in the morning and usually the stock lasts only for a couple of hours. After the darshan, we went back to the hotel for breakfast and check out. we left Ganpatipule @ 10:00am. We took SH106 and NH66 route. There were 2–3 short diversions but the overall journey was quite comfortable. We reached Devbagh at 2:00pm. We stayed @ The Windmill resort. The place is slightly expensive but it has excellent restaurant and direct access to beach, which was empty except for the guests @ the resort. Post lunch and some rest, it was time for another sunset at the beach. It was beautiful, peaceful and full of vivid colours in the sky. Light early dinner and we were ready to call it a day.

Bappa Darshan

Day 3

started slow with a beach morning walk followed by a leisurely breakfast at the hotel. we checked out @10am and started our onward journey to Palolem. We took Tarkarli-Devbagh road, but after about 4km we realized the road was under construction and we had to improvise and find an alternative route which even Google maps couldn’t identify. Asking for directions from some natives, we found an alternative route, which to our pleasant surprise passed right next to our Kuldevta mandir — talk about divine intervention!! We continued our journey after taking blessings from Shri Adinarayan and Devi Shanta Durga. We took a quick lunch stop at Mall-de-Goa for amazing chonak thali @ Ritz classic. We reached Palolem around 5pm, did quick check-in and went straight to the beach. Another sunset, surrounded by beautiful rock formations, made my day. After sunset we went to get pizza at Nireas healthy kitchen — I know healthy pizza, right? well, they did have a healthy, immunity boosting, drink. After not so healthy pizza and the drink, we made our way through Palolem market and back to hotel.

Divine Intervention

Day 4

started the same — beach morning walk, followed by breakfast and check out. Same old NH66 onward to Murudeshwar, our south most stop in the journey. Enroute, we visited Gokarna Partagali Jeevottam Math to see the legendary 77 feet height tall Rama statue. We also saw Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, which seemed inviting, but due to time constraint we added it to our future list and moved ahead on NH66. We crossed Karnataka border and drove through Karwar, Kumta, Honawar and reached Murudeshwar. Apparently there is a fair “Jatra” at Murudeshwar in January and it just happened to be during the days when we arrived, which meant heavy traffic and lots of crowd. Driving through fair is an experience best avoided. We stayed at RNS residency, which was right next to Murudeshwar Temple. It has great rooms with sea views as well as views of temple and Shiva statue. The proximity to the temple is unprecedented. After quick check-in we went in search for sustenance and found an awesome place to eat — Nayak Fishland. The seafood there set an extremely high standard. The fish was super fresh and very well prepared; the staff was polite and helpful. Unfortunately, we couldn’t try everything on the menu, (I mean, there is only so much you can eat at one go) and had to go back for dinner to ensure we didn’t miss anything. After lunch, we went to the Shri Mhatobar Murudeshwar temple. The temple is closed during afternoon 1 to 3 pm. And since we reached around 3 pm, the temple had just started and obviously crowded. We struggled through it and finally got a short darshan. Post Darshan, it was time for some R&R. In the evening, we went for beach walk and another sunset. Murudeshwar beach is not very clean due to temple tourists. The Jatra crowd and many food stalls didn’t help either. Dinner was a quick affair back at Nayak Fishland for Anjal i.e Surmai fry with rice and fish curry. There is something about rice & fish fry that just speaks to my Konkani soul and boy, did it speak that night!! Definitely going back there!!

Day 5

was a lazy morning where for once we skipped the beach walk and enjoyed the sea view form the hotel balcony. Had an elaborate breakfast spread at the hotel and left for Karwar. Again, back to NH66, after driving appx 2.5 hrs we reached Karwar. I have never been to Karwar but the place felt like home, probably something to do with the fact that everyone speaks Konkani or that my ancestors were from Karwar or the fact that I grew up hearing the joy in my dad’s voice whenever he spoke about his days at Kanasgiri. Whatever maybe the reason, Karwar felt welcoming and homely. We had lunch at Shweta Lunch home; the seafood was fresh but slightly oil. I enjoyed it nevertheless. Post lunch we checked-in @Sterling Karwar. The hotel has a lot of indoor games, swimming pool and the sea view room was spacious. We played carrom and air hockey — and I found out that I am bad at both of them. Some bad games and some tantrums later, we left for yet another sunset, this time at Ravindranath Tagore beach of Karwar. This beach was by far the cleanest one so far, and the crowd was sparse. The sky turned a picture-perfect pink and then dispersed into various shades of pink, red, purple…it was like nature decided to splash its colour palette on the sky that evening. After the most beautiful sunset, we wandered into a nearby shop — Hotel Poornima — to have some famous “Gudbad” ice cream and returned back to hotel for night.

Sunset and Icecream

Day 6

After the amazing sunset last night, I was not ready to call it quits for the Karwar beach, so, the next day early morning we were back for the sunrise and morning walk. Suffice it to say, I was not disappointed. The sea was serene and peaceful and sunrise across the coconut trees made it perfect. I left the beach half-hearted but with a promise to come back someday. We went back to the hotel, parked the car and went in search of breakfast. The Udupi Cafe, barely 200m from the hotel was the answer. After a scrumptious south Indian breakfast (which I ordered in Konkani, and discovered that I enjoy speaking Konkani with random strangers, a little too much) we were back at the hotel. We left for Ratnagiri, our next destination, @9:30am and as usual took the NH66. As we crossed Karnataka-Goa border, we had a short adventure, as in got caught by Goa traffic police — for “over speeding” of all the things. Well, in my defence, I was @85kmph on an empty straight road with speed limit of 80kmph, which should not be counted as “over speeding”. For future reference, maintain speed limit on National highways, especially on a two-lane road without a divider. After paying a hefty fine of 1000/- we moved on, took Colvado bypass and crossed the Goa-Maharashtra border without any further incidents. We took a short lunch halt at Kudal hotel -Talkonkan. The food was so-so and the washroom condition was best left undiscussed. Luckily, the WS at petrol pump next door was reasonably usable. Post lunch, we went back to our faithful NH66. At Rajapur, we took SH4, which lead us to our Next stop @Ratnagiri. We stayed at hotel Kohinoor Samudra. The hotel property is huge, has various activities, kids play area and a big swimming pool with a slide. It also has a beautiful sunset point and private access to the beach right below. Of course, you have to climb down appx 50feet to get to the beach and don’t forget the trek back. So, we decided to take the easy way and use our car and SH4 to get to the beach. I mean, we were tired from 6hrs drive, not to mention the mental trauma of getting caught by the police. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the fact that this was the last beach of this journey, hit me hard. I wish I could travel like this forever, hoping from beaches to beaches, soaking in the sunsets and sunrises, standing on the ever-moving sands of time. After the sunset and the self-imposed melancholy subsided, we came back to the hotel and ended the day.

Challan

Day 7

was planned to do nothing except for R&R. I went for the usual beach morning walk @ sunrise, had breakfast and went back to sleep. Yes, I was on a vacation and it isn’t complete until I sleep during broad daylight and do nothing. Some good zzzzs later, we went to Lunch @ hotel Amantran for some more seafood (Hello bombil rawa tawa fry, yay!!). We also got some “Kohala Pak” at nearby Helekar Mithai. We also tried some “Aflatoon” @ Ajwa sweets. Done with good food and sweets, we headed back to the hotel for some more naptime. Since today was a lazy day, we decided to skip the beach and instead opted to watch the sunset from the swing at the sunset point on the cliff at the hotel. Post sunset we walked a bit, completed the regular 10k steps and went for dinner. Dinner was quick affair of Kombadi vade & beer and then it was time to, yes you are right, go back to sleep again.

Sunset from the Swing

Day 8

was the last day of vacation, where we say good bye to the dreamland and drive back to the reality. Morning started with a walk to the same sunset point from last evening, breakfast at the hotel and at last, pack up and check out. We left @10am, it took an hour to get out of Ratnagiri and reach our good old NH66. There were multiple diversions due to traffic and road works. We took Sangameshwar-Chiplun-Mahad-Mangaon-Mahad-Mangaon-Mangaon- Pen-Karnala route. We took a break at Kolad’s mCafe (not to be misread as McCafe by McDonald’s) enroute (yes, it is right on NH66). The food there was good and I highly recommend it. Despite good food, it was surprisingly sparsely crowded. Considering the lower number of footfalls, the washroom was clean. The service was slightly slow, but I can wait 15–20 minutes for a freshly prepared Thalipeeth, Puranpoli, Batata wada and not to forget the crispy Kothimbhir wadi. Back to NH-66 till Palaspa. After Palaspa, we took JNPT road, Atal Setu and reached Mumbai. The last sunset of the vacation at BKC connector was just as pretty as the entire week.

Kolad’s mCafe