Sicily — Tiny Elephants, Pistachios, and Pastries

A little bit of Sicily, or what we did on our trip

We went to Italy in November as we wanted to have a bit kinder weather and not to be completely destroyed by the harsh sun. Luckily, we got a direct flight to Catania, making it easy and comfortable for us.

We landed in the evening, and it was already getting dark. Transportation seemed well organized, and we decided to go by city bus to the booked apartment. There were a few tourists, slightly confused, standing around the bus stop as the bus was coming in a slightly different time than what was on the timetable. But do not worry, the bus will come.

We hopped on the bus, but it was not that easy to understand which stop was which. We asked a question to a young Italian man who also just happened to travel on the same plane and had just arrived home from his trip. He shared not only the best stop to get off, but also recommended places to have meals during our stay. Very kind.

We had a walk to our apartment; the evening was warm, and it was a pleasant walk. We arrived at our place, and on the first evening we went out for a stroll around the city and to have a nice dinner.

Catania

Our main goal for the trip was to peek into the Sicilian lifestyle and get the feel of the place without packed or rushed to-do lists. There were a few things that we had in mind, though — we wanted to go to Etna and visit nearby cities. We decided not to rent a car and use Catania as our base location.

The recommended restaurant was nice, with a pleasant view, and the food was tasty. So I can recommend the mentioned restaurant called Deliziosa.

Dinner at Deliziosa. Image by the author.

Catania itself is not large, but it has nice streets and views. It seemed nice to me. For sure, there are some areas not as great looking, but to be fair, you can find those in any city.

We spent some time walking around, and also going to the seaside, where it felt like only tourists go, if any. It might be the season, as November may no longer be the time when Italians go for a swim.

The market was not far from our apartment, and we got some fresh fruit, fish, and meat there. Get ready to experience loud vendors and busy streets. Just a tip — consider what shoes you wear, the fish market is not really a place for sandals.

Sights of Catania. Images by the author.

There were often street artists performing, especially in the evenings. The ones we saw were good, so there is a chance you to enjoy some nice performances here and there.

Overall, the city atmosphere is chill. There are plenty of small cafeterias to grab a coffee and a nice pastry. There was one nice place that we noticed because there were many locals just hanging around and having intense conversations. We had to check what they have to offer.

It was a small place, but it was lively. The host noticed us and was very welcoming. We got some salty and sweet pastries and coffees. The host rushed to one of the tables right in front of the cafe on the walkway and kindly removed one of the seniors sitting at the table. It was not rude; it was more like the senior was a regular, but just chilling there for a long time to meet up with whoever showed up. So he was friendly and spared a table for new cafe guests. I liked this place a lot. We visited at least once more, but most times when we passed by, it was so busy, there was no chance to get a seat.

Bar de Curtis. Image by the author.

Syracuse

We were planning to go on a day trip to Syracuse. It is convenient to get there by a direct train line — ticket price around 9 EUR one way for one person. The ride was about an hour, and you are there. The train was comfortable.

The city felt way more intense than Catania. We visited the Greek Theater (Teatro Greco di Siracusa). It was interesting, you could also get an audio guide, which was convenient to go at your own pace.

Greek Theater. Image by the author.

The views. Images by the author.

There is also a nice spot to have a coffee or an ice cream.

The Maniace Castle and the Euryalus Castle were closed for the visitors that day, but honestly, the surroundings were interesting enough and the weather was amazing, so walking around exploring was great.

Taormina

We intended to go to Taormina by train, but we happened to meet a nice couple from our home country at said beach. Only people enjoying the beach at this time of year are foreigners from more up north in Europe.

Anyhow, we ended up going together by car to Taormina. It is beautiful, but I also found it very tourist-focused, and you would feel it at every step. And of course, you see that on price tags. It is fair if people come to visit, it is the absolute right of locals to ask for more money.

The place was busy. I mean, what can you expect? There are two pop culture locations at this place — The Godfather and, most recently, White Lotus 2 was filmed here, making this an even more desired destination for visitors.

The city is nice with beautiful scenery. We did enjoy it, and walked up to the beach. It was rocky and not easy on the feet, but I was more surprised by no infrastructure to accommodate many visitors. In contrast to previous beaches, this one was full of people, not crowded, but plenty. Noticed all people struggling to find a place to change clothes in somewhat privacy, no bathrooms. I don’t know, maybe that was the Italian way of saying that you are not welcome. Who knows, really?

We had a nice dinner. Just a heads up — the prices for eating out, of course, are higher than in Catania. I think it is worth going, the sights are amazing, and it is walkable.

Taormina views. Images by the author.

Etna

One of the absolute highlights was the Etna visit. I could not make up my mind how to go about this, as there were plenty of options, but eventually I went for a fully guided package, which was more expensive, but I wanted to not miss out on anything.

Mount Etna visible in the distant sky from the busy street of Catania a few days before our trip to the volcano. The sky was coloured red by lava confetti. Image by the author.

We were picked up early in the morning by a very nice guide. There were already two French visitors in the bus, ready for the volcano trip. The guide was a local and told us many interesting details about Catania, its history, people's lifestyles, volcano eruptions, and more. Already during the ride, I was like — yep, this was the right choice.

We went first to the guide base to sign papers and get additional equipment if anyone needed something extra, like warmer jackets. We also picked helmets and headlights for the lava cave visit.

We went up to the base to go further up by a cable car, but there was some video shooting, so they did not allow visitors to use the cable cars. We got redirected to go up by a very Mad-Max-like car. Ok, I’m exaggerating, but those were muscular cars. It was a fun ride.

The muscle car. Image by the author.

On top, we walked around and had some time to explore. The interesting bit was that we saw Etna spitting out lava from Catania a few days back and wondered if we would be even allowed to go up. But now we could warm our hands above almost solidified rocks that formed from the lava spit out the same week. Insane.

Etna at different levels. Image by the author.

Below the first layer, there was still soft lava, and the guide put a wooden stick inside, and it came out like a torch. The nature is amazing and surprisingly interesting.

After that, we went back to the volcano base station and had a nice lunch. We had a walk around the older craters. This was interesting to see as the last damage from lava was visible — one destroyed, burned cable car way, standing not very far from the new one. Also, the old base has been destroyed and the new one rebuilt.

After this, we drove to the caves. It was interesting to see how lava has carved these caves, and there are estimated to be more of these underground tunnels that have not been discovered yet. The one we visited was found because of road construction. So to say, by accident, really.

Exploring the caves. Images by the author.

Pistachios

The pistachios deserve a separate chapter. You see, pistachios are even called green gold and happen to be one of the most precious ingredients in Sicilian cuisine. And most likely not only that, but also a great contribution to the local economy.

You will find pistachios everywhere — ice cream, sauces, pastries, fillings, liquers, and more. I really liked croissants and other pastries with pistachio fillings. In the market, you can also find smashed pistachios that go perfectly with salad and different sauces for pasta and even meat.

If you like pistachios, Sicily is the place for you.

Dwarf Elephants

One odd thing I found about Catania was the statues of elephants, and not just that, there are elephants on drainage covers and other elements as well. Turns out Elephant is an official symbol of Catania. I was like, wait, — elephants in Sicily?

Elephant. Image by the author.

There are different stories about how elephants became symbols over here. There is evidence that during the Upper Paleolithic Times, a dwarf elephant lived in Sicily. It was believed that the elephant protects locals from dangers in some sources from dangerous animals, in others from the anger of Etna.

Do not be surprised to find elephant images in different places.

To sum up, Sicily is a great destination. I would not recommend going in the summer heat. For us, the middle of November turned out great; some days were still hot and evenings were warm. If you plan to walk a lot and want to enjoy comfort, late autumn or early spring might be the best choice.

Enjoy pistachios and coffee!