Winter Onsen in Hokkaido: Why I Learned to Love the Cold

I have lived in Asahikawa, Hokkaido, for more than ten years, but I didn’t grow up here.

Before moving north, I lived in a much warmer part of Japan where snow only appeared a few times each year and temperatures below freezing were rare. Winter was simply another season.

Then I moved to Asahikawa.

From around December to February, temperatures often remain below freezing throughout the day. During my first winter, I quickly discovered that cold in Hokkaido isn’t something you just read about in a weather forecast. You feel it in your ears when the wind blows. You feel it under your feet when you step outside. Sometimes you even feel it in the silence of a snowy morning.

At the time, I never expected one of the coldest parts of Japan would eventually teach me how to enjoy winter.

One experience changed that more than anything else.

An outdoor hot spring.

The Indoor Bath Isn’t What Makes Hokkaido Special

Many visitors imagine that a winter onsen in Hokkaido must be an extreme experience from beginning to end.

Surprisingly, that’s not really true.

The changing rooms are warm. The indoor bath area is comfortable. If you’ve visited a hot spring elsewhere in Japan, the indoor bath will probably feel familiar.

The real difference begins when you open the door and step outside.

The Walk to the Outdoor Bath

The first thing you notice is your feet.

On snowy days, the path leading to the outdoor bath may be covered with snow or patches of ice. Even when it has been cleared, the cold quickly reaches your bare feet.

Then there is the wind.

The first time I stepped outside into a winter outdoor bath area, I was shocked by how much my ears hurt. Not just mild discomfort. For a few moments, I genuinely wondered why anyone would voluntarily leave a perfectly warm indoor bath.

If you’re visiting a winter onsen in Hokkaido for the first time, my advice is simple.

Warm up indoors before going outside.

Spending a few minutes in the indoor bath first makes the experience much more enjoyable.

I also learned another lesson from experience.

These days, I usually visit the outdoor bath before washing my hair. Stepping outside with wet hair on a cold winter day can make your head feel much colder than you expect.

And no matter how cold you feel, don’t run.

The path may be slippery because of snow, ice, or water from other bathers. The temptation to rush toward the hot water is strong, but a few extra seconds of cold feet are much better than slipping and injuring yourself.

The Moment Everything Changes

Then you step into the water.

Suddenly, the cold no longer feels like a problem.

The first time I experienced a winter outdoor bath, I spent the entire walk wondering why anyone would choose to do this.

Less than a minute after getting into the water, I completely understood.

Your body becomes wonderfully warm while the winter air keeps your face and head cool. The balance feels perfect.

In summer, I often leave a bath because I become too hot.

In winter, I find myself wanting to stay longer.

The colder it is outside, the better the hot water feels.

Watching Snow Fall From a Hot Spring

After spending more than ten winters in Asahikawa, this remains my favorite winter experience.

My favorite days are when snow is actually falling.

There is something special about sitting in steaming hot water while snowflakes drift quietly from the sky.

Some melt before they reach the water. Others land softly on the edge of the bath and disappear.

The world seems quieter somehow.

Instead of thinking about the cold, I find myself simply watching the snow and enjoying the moment.

Even after all these years, it never really gets old.

Snowy days are my favorite.

Windy days are another story.

Snow Makes the Night Brighter

Before moving to Hokkaido, I never realized how bright a snowy night could be.

Fresh snow reflects so much light that winter nights often feel brighter than visitors expect.

Many outdoor baths use gentle lighting around trees and gardens. When that light reflects off the snow, the scenery feels almost dreamlike.

Steam rises from the water.

Snow-covered branches glow softly in the darkness.

The contrast between warmth and winter creates a scene that photographs never fully capture.

The People Who Still Surprise Me

There is one thing I still don’t fully understand.

The sauna enthusiasts.

I don’t use saunas myself, but during winter I often see people leave the sauna and head straight outside to sit in chairs near the outdoor bath.

Not for a few seconds.

Sometimes for several minutes.

In sub-zero temperatures.

Coming from a warm region of Japan, I found this completely unbelievable when I first saw it.

Even after more than ten years in Hokkaido, I still admire their dedication from the safety of the hot water.

A Few Things to Keep in Mind

Winter onsen are incredibly relaxing, but the temperature difference between the indoor bath and the outdoor air can be significant.

Take your time moving between hot water and freezing temperatures.

Walk carefully on snowy or icy surfaces.

Warm yourself up before heading outside.

Most importantly, slow down and enjoy the experience.

Winter onsen are not something to rush.

From Enduring Winter to Enjoying It

Before moving to Hokkaido, I never imagined that sitting outside in the snow could feel relaxing.

Back then, winter was simply something to endure.

Today, my favorite way to enjoy winter is soaking in an outdoor bath surrounded by snow.

The walk to the bath is still cold.

My ears still complain when the wind is strong.

But once I settle into the hot water and watch snowflakes fall through the steam, I remember exactly why I keep coming back.

For me, nothing captures the beauty of a Hokkaido winter better than a quiet outdoor bath with snow falling all around.