Comino Tower (St. Mary’s Tower): Why It Was Built and Why It Still Matters

Comino Tower (St. Mary’s Tower): Why It Was Built and Why It Still Matters

Perched on the highest point of Comino, **Comino Tower — officially St. Mary’s Tower** — was never meant to be a decorative monument. It was built for survival. Before Comino became associated with clear blue water and easy summer swimming, it was known as a dangerous midpoint between Malta and Gozo: a place where boats could be intercepted, and where enemies could disappear into hidden coves.

The narrow sea corridor beneath the tower was once one of the most exposed routes in the Maltese Islands. Raiders used Comino as a sheltered base, striking quickly and retreating just as fast. The purpose of the tower was to remove that advantage: to deny hostile ships a refuge, control movement through the channel, and restore security to the sea routes between the islands.

Even today, the most natural way to understand Comino Tower is the way generations experienced it — approaching the island from the water, with the tower dominating the skyline long before you reach the shore.

A Short History of Comino and Its Pirate Past

For much of its history, Comino was not a place people chose to settle. Its value was strategic, not agricultural. Sitting between Malta and Gozo, it occupied a position that allowed whoever held it to monitor, disrupt, or ambush traffic moving through the channel.

From at least the 13th century, Comino became closely linked with piracy and raiding. Turkish forces and Barbary corsairs made repeated use of the island’s isolation and rugged coastline. With no permanent population and no organised defence, the island offered ideal conditions for concealment. Boats could shelter during rough weather, and then strike passing vessels when the sea calmed.

The Malta–Gozo crossing was especially vulnerable. Passenger boats, supply craft, and small merchant vessels were frequent targets, often attacked with little warning. After an assault, raiders could retreat to Comino’s coves and wait for the next opportunity.

Comino’s reputation grew accordingly: it wasn’t avoided because it was useless, but because it was dangerous. Over time, the authorities reached an unavoidable conclusion — leaving Comino undefended meant leaving the channel exposed.

The First Failed Attempts to Defend Comino

When Comino Tower was finally built in the 17th century, it was the result of a long-delayed decision — not a new idea. Centuries earlier, the dangers were already understood. In 1418, the Università of Malta formally decided that a tower on Comino was necessary to protect travel and trade between Malta and Gozo.

A year later, they petitioned King Alfonso V, seeking approval for construction. Their reasoning was direct: a tower would stop hostile vessels from sheltering on Comino and launching sudden attacks. Without it, Comino would remain a base where raiders could operate freely.

To strengthen the case, the Università sent a jurat, Giovanni Vaccaro, to Sicily to present the plan to the Viceroys. The approval came in April 1419, but with conditions. Funding would come from a special tax: one florin on each barrel of imported wine consumed in Malta and Gozo.

The tax was introduced. Funds were collected. And yet the tower was never built. The money was diverted into royal finances weakened by war, while Comino remained exposed. For decades, the tax continued to be taken — without delivering the protection it was meant to fund.

A second attempt followed in 1533 after Barbary corsairs landed in southern Malta, carried out a raid, and then remained on Comino for several days. The event angered Grandmaster Philippe Villiers de L’Isle-Adam, who understood how vulnerable Malta could become when the Order’s galleys were away. A military engineer was instructed to survey the island and prepare plans, but once again the project was abandoned due to more urgent defensive needs elsewhere.

By the early 1600s, Comino had been left exposed for nearly two centuries. The threat was real, the solution agreed, and yet nothing had been built. What was missing was not knowledge, but decisive action.

Wignacourt’s Decision: The Tower That Finally Changed Comino

That decisive action came in 1618 under Grandmaster Alof de Wignacourt. Unlike earlier attempts, his response was not another proposal that stalled — it became a finished structure.

Wignacourt recognised that Comino could only be secured if it was denied as a refuge. A strongly built tower would prevent enemies from sheltering, lingering, or using the island to control the channel. Just as importantly, it would protect those crossing between Malta and Gozo.

His plan linked defence with practical settlement: the island would be cleared and cultivated, and the tower would provide refuge to farmers working there. Profits from agriculture would help reduce the cost of upkeep. Combined with Garzes Tower in Gozo, the new tower would create overlapping defensive coverage, making the straits far less hospitable to hostile vessels.

The Council approved the plan unanimously. The result was one of the most expensive coastal watchtowers built in the Maltese Islands. Wignacourt is recorded as spending over 18,600 scudi on construction, armament, and provisions — an enormous investment for a small island outpost.

The impact was immediate. Comino could finally be worked with a measure of safety. Farmers returned after long abandonment, supported by warning signals, guards, and a place of refuge. With one project, Comino shifted from lawless shelter to defended territory.

Engineering a Fortress on a Deserted Island

Comino Tower was built to endure isolation. Unlike towers in Malta or Gozo, it could not depend on nearby settlements or quick reinforcement. Its design reflects that: it is not simply a lookout, but a fortress built to survive alone.

The site chosen was the top of a steep hill, roughly 230 feet above sea level. From this height, the tower commanded broad visibility across the channel, the approaches to Mġarr Harbour, and the surrounding coastline. Height was not a luxury — it was the core of the tower’s function.

Engineers created a massive square plinth before raising the tower itself. This base elevated the structure approximately 25 feet above ground level, improving line-of-sight and making assault more difficult. Around the plinth, rock was cleared to form defensive features including a shallow dry ditch, glacis, counterscarp, and fausse braye — elements more typical of larger fortifications than simple watchtowers.

Inside the plinth, space was left for essential storage and survival: supplies, animals, and crucially water. A fresh water well formed part of the tower’s lifeline, especially important on an island with limited resources and no reliable surface water.

Above the plinth, the tower rose as a massive square block with walls up to 18 feet thick. Defence was organised vertically through multiple internal levels, connected by narrow stairways. The roof served as a gun platform with wide visibility and 360-degree coverage.

Access was deliberately awkward. A detached stone ramp led to a drawbridge that could be withdrawn quickly. The entrance itself was offset, not centred — forcing attackers into a vulnerable approach. Every major choice in the design points to the same principle: Comino Tower was not built to impress. It was built to hold.

The Tower During Ottoman Threats and Military Alerts

Comino Tower became even more significant whenever reports emerged of Ottoman fleet activity in the Mediterranean. In the 17th century, Malta lived with the expectation of renewed invasion, and Comino sat directly on a sensitive maritime corridor.

Whenever intelligence suggested danger, Comino Tower was reinforced. Men, equipment, and supplies were dispatched; ammunition stocks were increased; and the garrison moved to constant watch. The tower’s value was its speed — its ability to detect movement early and trigger a chain of preparation across Malta and Gozo.

Periods of heightened alert occurred repeatedly across the decades. Inspections of Comino and Gozo’s towers assessed readiness and deficiencies. The tower’s guns were kept manned when threats were believed imminent, and its position allowed approaching fleets to be observed well before they could reach harbours or landing areas.

Even when no invasion arrived, the tower’s readiness mattered. Any hostile fleet attempting to move through the channel would face early detection and coordinated defence. That is why Comino remained guarded even when it had no permanent civilian population — its importance was measured by control of the sea, not life on land.

Watching the Channel: Signals, Guns, and Constant Readiness

Comino Tower functioned as part of a wider network rather than a lone outpost. It coordinated with Garzes Tower in Gozo and signalling points in northern Malta, forming an early warning system across the channel.

Visual signals — flags by day and fires by night — allowed information to travel quickly. These signals could provide the time needed for evacuation, reinforcement, or tactical preparation. The tower’s artillery was placed to cover the most sensitive approaches, including routes leading toward Mġarr. Combined with Garzes Tower’s coverage, this created overlapping defensive fire that made hostile movement far more risky.

Comino’s coastline also mattered. Even sheltering near the island or attempting to draw water could expose vessels to threat. When the wider region faced periods of Ottoman movement or corsair activity, Comino Tower’s garrison increased and its readiness intensified.

This helps explain why Comino mattered even when it was empty. The island’s strategic value was always tied to the sea. As long as the Malta–Gozo channel remained vital, the tower could not be left to chance.

The Tower as a Prison: Comino in 1799

During the French occupation of Malta, Comino Tower took on a surprising role. Although Comino was bypassed during the initial invasion in 1798, the island soon became central to internal security during the uprising.

By early 1799, the country was in siege conditions. The French were confined behind fortified lines, while resistance forces controlled much of the countryside. Leadership fell to Captain Alexander Ball, who faced not only an external enemy but the fear of spies and informants.

Comino became a controlled detention zone. Suspected collaborators, spies, agitators, and other undesirable figures were sent into exile on the island — many confined within the tower itself. Isolation made escape extremely difficult, with the sea acting as a natural barrier.

Access to Comino was tightly controlled. Boats were not permitted to land without authorisation, and penalties for unauthorised contact were severe, designed to prevent rescues and the movement of intelligence.

For a brief period, the tower’s function shifted from maritime defence to political control. It was no longer only watching the sea — it was holding people.

British Rule, Decline, and Abandonment

After the French capitulation in 1800, Comino Tower entered a new phase under British control. With the Royal Navy dominant in the Mediterranean, the corsair threat that had shaped centuries of defensive planning began to fade. The sea routes between Malta and Gozo were no longer contested in the same way.

The tower remained in use for a time, largely as a coastal watch and quarantine control point. Small detachments continued to man the site, but its role diminished as military doctrine and regional conditions changed.

As the 19th century progressed, permanent guards were eventually withdrawn. Without a garrison, the structure began to suffer. Wind and salt air caused natural deterioration, while human neglect proved more destructive: stone was removed, interior fittings were stripped, and vandalism left visible scars.

By the late 1800s, Comino Tower was no longer a working defensive asset. It had become a neglected relic — its strategic purpose largely ended, and its survival uncertain.

Damage, Vandalism, and Restoration

Decades of exposure and neglect damaged Comino Tower both structurally and internally. Deep vertical cracks appeared over time, likely influenced by subsidence as well as powerful earthquakes recorded in the region across the centuries.

Vandalism and theft accelerated the decline. Stone blocks were removed from the plinth and reused elsewhere. The roof parapet and sections of the corner turrets disappeared. Inside, doors and fittings were stripped away. The walls still carry graffiti and carved initials — some more than a century old — quiet traces of visitors long after the tower’s original defenders were gone.

One lesser-known detail adds another layer of fascination. To the left of the main entrance, a small dug-out area in the bastion served as a rudimentary toilet, carved directly into the limestone. Beneath it was a recess where a bucket could be placed. At some point, a narrow concealed passage ran through the thickness of the bastion wall from this space, but during restoration works in 2004 it was sealed for safety.

Serious restoration began in 2002, with exterior works completed by 2004. Over time, further deterioration made additional intervention necessary. Today, the tower is again undergoing restoration, with reopening planned for mid-2026 — an important step in preserving both its structure and its long, layered story.

Life on Comino Today: One Resident, One Tower

Comino remains quiet in a way few places in Malta still are. There is no village, no town centre, and no permanent community in the usual sense. When seasonal visitors leave, the island returns to a stillness that feels older than modern tourism.

Until relatively recently, Comino wasn’t entirely empty. As late as 2017, around four people were still living on the island. Over time, that number declined as isolation, limited services, and the realities of protected island life took their toll. Today, Comino has a single permanent resident: Salvu Vella.

His home lies a short walk from the tower, in a building constructed during the British period. Originally used as a boiler room connected to hospital facilities once operating on Comino, the structure reflects how the island’s history has always been shaped by institutions, logistics, and the sea.

Life on Comino is still governed by weather, distance, and supply. Movement depends on conditions, and the sea remains the island’s lifeline. With one resident and one dominant landmark, Comino feels less like a destination and more like a place where history is still quietly present.

Visiting Comino Tower Today

Visiting Comino Tower today is a very different experience from its defensive past, but access remains shaped by the same reality: Comino is an island, and it can only be reached by boat. There are no bridges, no road links, and no alternative routes.

When the tower is open, entry is traditionally indicated by a flag. Opening days and times can vary by season and restoration status, so the flag remains a simple way to know whether visits are possible. Even when the interior is closed, the tower can be appreciated from multiple points around the island.

One of the most convenient ways to reach the tower on foot is to arrive at **Crystal Lagoon**, where the walk to the tower is relatively short — around fifteen minutes. This route also offers something meaningful: it mirrors the way Comino has always been encountered, approached from the sea with the tower visible long before you step ashore.

The tower is also at its most striking when viewed from offshore. At sunset — anchored near Crystal Lagoon or along the southern side of the Blue Lagoon — the stone structure takes on a different character, its silhouette set against the changing sea. Visitors are encouraged to respect Comino’s fragility, keep to paths, and remember that the island remains both protected and historically significant.

How to Get to Comino Island and Comino Tower

There are three practical ways to reach Comino today, and each comes with different trade-offs.

1) Ferry to the Blue Lagoon In summer, ferries commonly run frequently to the Blue Lagoon, often starting around 9:00am and continuing through the day. From the Blue Lagoon, the walk to Comino Tower is typically around 30–40 minutes across the island. This is straightforward, but it can feel exposed and busy during peak hours.

2) Group boat tours Many group tours stop at the Blue Lagoon for a fixed time — often two to three hours. While it is technically possible to walk to the tower and back within that window, it can be tight, especially in hot weather or when the lagoon is crowded.

3) Private boat A private boat can stop closer to the tower, including at the jetty near Crystal Lagoon, which offers the shortest walk — around fifteen minutes. This route also tends to avoid the most congested areas. (As a private boat tour operator, this is the option we recommend when visitors want both swimming time and a relaxed walk to the tower without rushing.)

Whichever option you choose, reaching Comino by sea isn’t just practical — it’s part of the island’s identity. For centuries, Comino has been defined by the water around it, and that remains true today.

Why St. Mary’s Tower Still Matters

St. Mary’s Tower is not only a historic structure; it is the explanation for Comino itself. Built in response to centuries of danger, it represents control of the sea more than dominance of land. For generations, it watched a vital channel, relayed warnings, coordinated defence, and denied shelter to enemies.

Even when Comino had no permanent population, the tower remained significant because the sea below it mattered. That same isolation still defines the island today: no roads, no village, and access governed entirely by weather and water.

Seen from a distance, Comino Tower continues to dominate the landscape just as it has for more than four centuries. It stands as a reminder that Comino was never shaped to expand or soften with time. It endures as a place formed by defence, restraint, and the surrounding sea — and that is precisely why it still matters.

Frequently Asked Questions About Comino Tower and Comino Island

Why was St. Mary’s Tower built? It was built in 1618 to stop pirates and hostile forces from using Comino as a base to attack boats travelling between Malta and Gozo.

Why was Comino considered dangerous in the past? Its hidden coves allowed pirates and raiders to shelter, resupply, and launch sudden attacks on passing vessels.

Who built Comino Tower? Grandmaster Alof de Wignacourt of the Order of St John, largely at his own expense.

Was Comino ever inhabited? Yes. It was inhabited at times by farmers and workers but was abandoned for long periods due to piracy and isolation.

Does anyone live on Comino today? Yes. Today there is one permanent resident. As late as 2017, around four people were still living on the island.

Why does Comino have no village or town? Because it lacks natural harbours, reliable water sources, and infrastructure — and historically it was unsafe to settle.

Can you visit Comino Tower today? Yes, when it is open. Access is influenced by restoration status and is often indicated by a flag.

Is Comino Tower under restoration? Yes. It is undergoing restoration with reopening planned for mid-2026.

**How do you get to Comino?** Only by boat. There are no bridges or roads connecting Comino to Malta or Gozo.

What is the easiest way to reach Comino Tower? Landing near Crystal Lagoon offers the shortest walk, around fifteen minutes.

Can you walk to the tower from the Blue Lagoon? Yes. It usually takes about 30–40 minutes.

Are there other fortifications on Comino? Yes. Comino Battery in the southeast was built later and still contains original cannons.