The CWB Autumnal Red-Off

Three autumnal reds from Hancock & Hancock, Larry Cherubino and Esporao

Chillier evenings usher in the misty days of autumn when game comes into season.

Autumn is the hedonist’s season and demands wines to match. These three bottle are all perfect with gamey autumnal foods such as duck, pheasant, hare or venison.

They range from lighter to fuller with Western Australia’s take on red Burgundy, McLaren Vale’s rendition of the great grape of Rioja and a full-on dry-port style red blend from Alentejo.

Photo by PeakLass

Cherubino Ad Hoc Cruel Mistress Pinot Noir 2023, Margaret River, Australia (Loki Wine, £13.99 Taurus Wine £16.99)

They say:

The roots for Cherubino were laid in 2004 when Edwina and Larry bought land in the Frankland River sub-region of the Great Southern, Australia’s largest wine region by sheer geography. A small parcel, originally part of a large, historic holding called Riversdale, their dream then was simply to plant our own vineyard.

A lot has happened since then. An opportunity to buy the neighbouring property, with acres of prime river and vineyard country, enlarged our vision. Frankland River in some sense is the soul of Cherubino, where it all began. For Edwina, a fourth generation West Australian, it’s where her family the Egerton-Warburton’s migrated to from England, in the mid 1800s. They planted the first vines on the banks of the river back in 1875.

Larry is a first-generation Australian. Like many from the great Italian migration, winemaking has always been something he’s known, pressing grapes on the farms or in the backyards of his own family in Siderno. There’s a tradition of families making wine for families. Cherubino is perhaps that on a much larger scale.

I say:

96.5% Pinot Noir, 3.5% Shiraz; wild fermentation, selected yeasts and 1–3 year old French oak for 6 months prior to bottling

13.5%

pale translucent ruby; cherries, graphite, spice and vegetal-mushroomy damp earth; juicy red and black cherry fruit, soft red berries and bramble fruits, damp earth, oaky spice and very fine tannins; savoury, long and very harmonious.

Good.

Drinks nicely on first opening; opens up with aeration and can be cellared.

Hancock & Hancock Tempranillo 2021, McLaren Vale, Australia (Amps Wine Merchants, £14.99 Latitude Wine £15.50, Sarah’s Cellar, Wine Direct Sussex)

They say:

Chris Hancock and brother John purchased the La Colline Vineyard in 2007 and began Hancock & Hancock. Chris’ CV includes time at Penfold’s and Rosemount Estate.

There are three distinct soil types at the top middle and bottom sections of the hillside, so we find different characteristics from each of the vineyard sections giving added complexity and interest to the wine we make.

A dry winter, windy spring, followed by a hot & dry summer. Careful irrigation required to keep the canopies and fruit healthy through the hot January and February. Nil disease pressure. Crop levels lower than average, but with harvest kicking off as usual around late February through to late March for the reds.

Harvested late February, de-stemmed to small open fermenters. Gentle plunging twice daily. 10 days on skins, then pressed off to finish malolactic fermentation. Racked to old oak barrels (2014 & 2015 French barriques) for 12 months. Post barrel maturation with small amount of fining and filtering before bottling.

I say:

98.4% Tempranillo, 1.6% other varieties

14%

deep ruby; fresh red and black fruits, menthol and spice; plush yet fresh with dark cherry, raspberry and dark berry fruits, spice and savoury tobacco leaf notes with fine, persistent tannins. Very harmonious.

Good.

Drinks nicely on first opening; opens up with aeration and can be cellared.

Esporão Reserva Red Organic 2021, Alentejo, Portugal (£21.00, Cheers Wine Merchants, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Great Grog, The Secret Cellar, The Solent Cellar)

They say:

The label depicts neolithic stones from recent neolithic findings at one of the Esporão sites. They are now classified as site of historical importance.

A rich, intense wine made with organic grapes by David Baverstock, the godfather of modern Portuguese wines; 12 months in American (60%) and French (40%) oak barrels. After bottling, the wine aged 8 months in the bottle.

I say:

Blend of Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon

14%

deep purple; wild berries with blackberry, plum, cinnamon and licorice; very fresh with dried dark berry fruits and dried dark plums; oaky spice, tobacco, cigar box and perfectly ripe, plush tannins.

Good.

Drinks nicely on first opening; opens up with aeration and can be cellared.