STDs, Chicken Pakodas, and Mountains of Solitude

When I arrived in Dharamshala on the 15th of this month, little did I know that my work assignment would start with a nightmarish first two days. But here we are!

A gorgeous sunset view from where I live in Naddi.

It all began with an encounter on Bumble. I met this guy who, after knowing me for all of six hours, insisted I get an STD sexual health panel test at a clinic in Downtown Dharamshala. His suggestion took me aback, and thankfully, I decided to reject his idea. Turns out, that was a stellar decision.

A few days later, I came across his profile again on Bumble — this time under a completely different name. While Bumble hasn’t been quick with their investigation, I’m eagerly awaiting to see how this unfolds. It’s a strange feeling — being in a new place and navigating such odd encounters. But hey, travel is as much about the unexpected as it is about the planned.

Moving on, I’ve mostly been cooped up in my room during the day, stepping out occasionally to visit a nearby gem of a café called Evaans. This place has become my second home. With its stunning sunset views and cozy hilltop location, it’s the perfect spot to unwind and work. The staff already know me by heart — after a week of regular visits and my go-to orders of cappuccino, ginger lemon honey water, and the occasional indulgence in chicken pakoras.

The owner also went above and beyond to introduce me to a working space in the cafe where I can bring my laptop and sit for hours. Day, noon, evenings or nights, the space is open to me, he said. A heartwarming gesture from a kind stranger in the mountains. I’m pretty sure I’ve left a mark, in their heart and on their books (with my daily orders).

I’ve even found myself striking up conversations with fellow patrons — a mix of locals and travellers — and it’s been heartwarming to exchange stories and tips about hidden spots in the area. The other day, I met another solo female traveller who exchanged stories from her digital nomad diaries. Living in a secluded cabin in Tehri, Uttarakhand, visiting Landour to meet her favourite author, going on a road trip to Ladakh with strangers she met at the hostel, and being stuck due to a snow storm in Spiti. It was a lovely exchange, to say the least and one that I truly enjoyed hearing about.

The first week has been unexpectedly fruitful. Living in this tiny Himachali hamlet has been a mix of quiet moments and lively encounters. Just yesterday, a group of six university students from Solan checked into the homestay. Their energy and youthful exuberance have been a delightful change of pace.

I truly cherish the serenity and solitude that the hills bring, nonetheless, I have enjoyed the occasional uproar, Punjabi music, and some chatter and laughter from the neighbouring room. They even invited me to join them for a late-night bonfire session, drink, chill and smoke up with. However, I kindly declined asking that I spend my evening with my sketches and writings.

Today, before they checked out, one of them guessed right about me being a writer. They asked if I had ever written a book, I directed them to my book on Amazon and then mentioned I was here to write my second. One of them then told me about how he’s heard of these writer blocks, and how creative writing thrives in solitude. I couldn’t agree more. We bid goodbye and went our separate ways. They headed downstairs, and me? Back to my room, haha.

Just a calm morning at the patio

My first week at Naddi (Dharamshala) has comprised a healthy mix of cooking, cleaning, sketching, writing and working remotely for my employer.

The sunsets have been nothing short of magical, painting the sky with hues I’ll never tire of. My evenings often culminate in stargazing sessions — a humbling experience that leaves me in awe every single time. And let’s not forget the occasional binge-watching of my favourite shows — a comforting indulgence that keeps the homesickness at bay.

I have slowly and steadily been getting back to my original sleep cycle as well. For someone with a fucked up circadian rhythm, seeing myself feel sleepy at 11 in the night is no small feat. I have also started doodling again, trying to centre myself and focus on the now.

I’ve also begun exploring the local scene around Naddi. Albeit non-commercial, this tiny hillside hamlet houses a few local temples, a sunset viewpoint and a hill point. It’s a beautiful experience to have, living like the locals among the locals and letting the crisp mountain air fill you with glee.

With 1.5 months ahead of me, I’m hopeful for kinder and brighter days. Here’s to peace and love — through and through.

And who knows? Maybe Dharamshala has a few more surprises in store for me — the good kind, I hope!