How Koji Saved Beetroot: Overcoming the “Earthy” Taste with Japanese Fermentation

My wife hated beets. Here is how custom Koji dressings transformed a muddy root into a vibrant, delicious superfood.

“It tastes like dirt.”

That was my wife’s honest first impression when she tried my homemade beet pickles.

To be completely clear: I run a small cafe in Osaka focused on gut health and natural food, and I love beets. They are nutrient-dense superfoods packed with iron, antioxidants, and nitrates that support circulation.

However, beets contain a natural compound called geosmin — the exact same chemical responsible for the smell of wet soil after rain. For many people, including my wife, that distinct earthy aroma is a dealbreaker.

I didn’t want her (or our guests) to eat healthy food out of sheer obligation. Food should be joyful. So, I set out on a culinary challenge: Could Japanese fermentation neutralize the harsh notes of beets and turn them into something truly crave-able?

The Power of Koji: Turning “Earthy” into “Umami”

After numerous trials, I stopped trying to force whole beets onto the plate. Instead, I turned to our house-made fermented seasonings, combining them with simple natural ingredients to create two vibrant pink dressings:

1．Beet & Onion Koji Dressing (using house-made Onion Koji)

2．Beet & Shio-Koji Soy Milk Dressing (using house-made Shio-Koji)

Koji (malted rice) is pure magic when it comes to flavor balancing. It doesn’t mask ingredients with heavy artificial flavorings; instead, its natural enzymes break down harsh edges, round out bitterness, and amplify intrinsic sweetness into deep umami.

When the wild energy of raw beets met the mellow power of fermented Koji, a truly harmonious dressing was born.

The Verdict

I poured the bright magenta dressing over a fresh green salad and served it to my skeptical wife.

She took a bite. Paused.

“Wait… the dirt taste is gone. I can actually eat this!”

Shortly after, we introduced it at our cafe, Cozy Cafe & Bar beyond. The guest reactions exceeded our expectations:

• “Are beets actually this delicious?!”
• “Is this dressing available for purchase?”
• “This might be the best salad dressing I’ve ever had.”

Today, my wife doesn’t just “tolerate” beets — she genuinely enjoys them.

Basic Recipe: Beet & Shio-Koji Soy Milk Dressing

For those who want to try this at home, here are the exact ingredients and steps:

Group A (Base Ingredients):

• Boiled Beetroot & Boiled Onion
• House-made Shio-Koji (Salt Koji), Vinegar, Simmered Sweet Mirin

Group B (Emulsion Ingredients):

• Additive-free Soy Milk, Cold-pressed Rapeseed Oil, Black Pepper

Steps:

1．Boil the beet whole with its skin on until tender. Boil the onion separately.

2．Peel the beet once boiled. Let the onion cool and drain excess water.

3．Simmer the sweet mirin to remove alcohol, then let it cool.

4．Blend all Group A ingredients together first.

5．Add Group B ingredients to the blender, mixing continuously to achieve a smooth emulsion.

Pro-Tip (The secret to avoiding a bland taste):

Never peel the beets before boiling! Boil them whole with the skin on until a skewer passes through smoothly. This locks in the rich natural sweetness and prevents the flavor from washing out into the water.

Eating with Joy, Not Obligation

You are what you eat.

But eating healthy shouldn’t feel like a punishment or a chore.

By borrowing a little wisdom from traditional Japanese fermentation, even the most challenging ingredients can become a delicious feast for your gut and your senses.