Briyani, Ginger Tea And Mango Cravings Satisfied At Little India

Photo Essay

Briyani, Ginger Tea And Mango Cravings Satisfied At Little India

One of the most authentic places in Singapore

photo by author

Singapore changes so rapidly but there is one place which still retains its old charm – Little India. I refer to it as Serangoon Road.

My parents used to bring me and my sister here when we were kids. It was so fun to choose saris for my mum as the shopkeeper unfurled the gorgeous nylons, chiffons and silks. So smooth and cool to touch.

We would also be brought to select gold jewellery. Usually earrings and sometimes pendants and necklaces. I loved helping my Amma (mum) select her earrings too. Choosing from the various designs and gem stones was the most satisfying part for me.

Gold is very much a part of our culture as my Ammachi (maternal grandma) always said it is protection (in a religious sense) for us and she liked us to wear some. An auspicious metal that repels negative energy.

The shopkeepers were always nice to kids and we’d be offered fizzy drinks (sodas). Back then 7 up or green spot. Not sure if you’re familiar with these drinks where you live.

My Amma used to do her marketing at Tekka market at Little India and I would hold my nose and try not to breathe as I walked through the meat section of the wet market. It was horrifying also to see slabs of goat. But as a child as long as your brain doesn’t connect the pieces of mutton you’re eating to the actual animal all is fine. Otherwise I would have been a vegetarian right then and there.

Recently after a doctors’ appointment we came to the hawker centre here known as Tekka market for chicken dum briyani. It’s not misspelt.

Briyani in Singapore is slightly different compared to Biryani in India or the Middle East. I find our verison richer (oilier) and sweeter somehow. Perhaps with the addition of raisins and caramelised onions to the rice. A mix of sweet and spicy. Since the early settlers to Singapore who brought in this cuisine were Tamil Muslim, they probably adapted it to suit the native population – the Malay palate. I love it but it’s super high in calories, so a rare treat. In the past we used to have this for just our festivals like Deepavali and Christmas (celebrated by my Catholic relatives).

photos by author

Usually the messier the presentation the tastier the food in Singapore. And also a fraction of the price compared to a restaurant with air conditioning and a fancy decor.

I have a favourite stall for teh halia (ginger milk tea) but you usually get accosted by other stall owners to get the drinks from then instead. I stand my ground but tourists usually have no clue and feel they have to order from the stall closest to their table. It’s actually free seating but many stall owners pressurise you (although politely) but still I don’t like it.

photos by author

I held out and happy I got the tea from my favourite stall. Tried and tested so I won’t be disappointed. Taste is subjective and my cousin for instance has a different favourite tea stall.

For the biryani I went to my second fave stall as there was a long queue this time at my top pick Yakader. I went for Hanifa instead.

photo by author

After lunch we decided to walk through the wet market section. I wouldn’t have done this if I wasn’t blogging. Blogging definitely makes me explore and pay more attention to the little details I would otherwise miss. More intentional living.

photo by author

This stall felt so valuable to me. It’s our tradition to eat on a banana leaf. Makes the food taste better somehow. And it’s eco friendly too. I hope the lady owner does well.

photo by author

My mum used to make the best flower crab curry when I was a kid. She stopped cooking after my father passed away 23 years ago. I think he was the one who appreciated her cooking the most. I didn’t as a child but I do now. I am a terrible cook and I don’t have the passion to learn from her but I often want to. She spent hours on marketing, food preparation, cooking and washing up. She had boundless energy. And this was only one of the roles she took on.

Memories flood back when I’m in certain places. We used to have a breadman deliver bread in his van and we could buy eggs too. I thought of this as I noticed another stall called Egg House specialising in just fresh eggs.

photos by author

And we also saw chillies of course which is a must in South Asian cooking.

photo by author

And fruit stalls beside hawker stalls at the food court section.

Photos by author

Not pristine like our modern supermarkets, but all the necessary stuff is here.

We then crossed the road as we had spotted mangoes being sold. I was craving for Alphonso mangoes in particular. It was mission success.

photos by author

We almost got knocked down by a purple Mercedes. Driver reversed suddenly as she was queuing up at the parking gantry. I was so annoyed. I had to jump back to avoid her. I was more concerned about my mum. Drivers here are getting more reckless and inconsiderate and I hope more get caught and fined. But I guess we got lucky and didn’t get knocked down.

More things we saw that brought back memories for me.

photos by author

A coconut grating machine. I used to follow my mum to the market where she bought freshly grated coconut. Back home I used to like helping my mum squeeze out the coconut milk with my little hands. This was the blissful time before I had to go to school. Just being at home with my mum was the best thing ever. She did a much better job at getting all the coconut milk extracted though, as you need strength.

Some photos my partner took.

photos by author’s partner

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