Break-a-Leg Rosé, Lukas van Loggerenberg

A pale rosé from South Africa (purchased at Justerini & Brooks) — the country’s best, apparently

Lukas van Loggerenberg is one of South Africa’s most exciting new winemakers. His “Break a Leg” rosé is made in the dry, Provence style from dryland, bushvine Cinsault fermented in old French oak. Light and delicately fragrant with a citrusy nose, the palate is savoury, moreish and refreshingly bone-dry.

I had popped this wine into my online shopping cart at a recent Justerinis mark-down sale — all wines were around 50% reduced and I had a decent mixture of reds and whites, so felt there would be space for a rosé in there. Especially one acclaimed as South Africa’s best.

I’ve opened a few bottles now and, whilst it’s demonstrably well-made and perfectly good, I was struggling somewhat to see quite what all the fuss is about until I left it overnight and came back the next day. With extended aeration the complex savouriness becomes more apparent and reveals the wine as more than just a mere inoffensive sipper.

They say:

Made from 83% Cinsault planted in 1992 near False Bay and 17% Grenache Noir. This is a great example of a fresh and elegant blush wine. Small quantities of this was made in 2016 for the first time and sold out in a flash with 2017 also selling out rather quickly. This is the kind of rose that will get people back onto rosé summer drinking.

Lukas van Loggerenberg was chosen as Young Winemaker of the Year in September 2018 by Tim Atkin; his wines are utterly delicious and worthy of all the praise it may receive.

Lukas says:

The soil structure of this valley is quite sandy and granitic which gives a good tannin structure to the wine. Granite brings lovely focus to the wines. What makes this farm very unique is the proximity to the ocean, it’s very close and you can feel this cool Atlantic breeze

Break-a-Leg Rosé, 2022, Lukas van Loggerenberg, Stellenbosch (£19, Lay & Wheeler, Justerini and Brooks, Solent Cellar)

They say:

This is a blend of 17% Grenache from the Polkadraai, with the balance coming from one of the closest Cinsault vineyards to the ocean, in Stellenbosch. The resulting wine is savoury, saline, and totally delicious. This is South Africa’s best rosé, and the 2022 is a real winner.

I say:

11.5%

Cinsaut with some Grenache

very pale mushroom / onionskin, more Blanc de Noir than rosé; dried orchard fruits, complexity, lime-zest and dried green herbs; fresh, saline and pure with white stone fruits, poached pears and melon; concentrated and savoury with creamy macadamia leesiness and a whiff of white pepper.

Good.

Drinks nicely on first opening, but reveals its complexity with extended aeration. Can be cellared further for greater complexity.

A gastronomic rosé, match with seafood, such as barbecued prawns with chili, garlic and rosemary or chili-and-ginger tuna carpaccio.

Others say:

Greg Sherwood (on 2021): Revisiting Some of the Impressive Lukas Van Loggerenberg 2021 Releases… | Greg Sherwood MW

Vivino: Lukas Van Loggerenberg Break a Leg | Vivino United Kingdom