Perfect Paris

My “A” List for Music, Bistros, Museums, Music & Neighborhoods

Street musician on the Pont de la Tournelle in Paris.

Words & photos by Lisa Alpine

Like a homing pigeon, I’ve returned to Paris every three years over the past five decades. I just can’t resist the timeless beauty of the City of Light. It is woven into my soul.

I will walk you through my version of the perfect Paris. My personal interests and passions tend toward live music in smaller venues, art, eclectic neighborhoods, dance — both going dancing and dance performances — and food. I walk for miles daily in order to discover new hidden back streets and architectural wonders (and make room for more delicious meals). I take the metro and avoid places in guidebooks or touristed zones though there are some must-see places where throngs of tourists flock. I choose brassieries, and bistros with French-only menus and I enjoy traveling to Paris solo so that I’m forced to speak French.

NOTE: I suggest going out for a prix fixe lunch as it is much less expensive than dinner at most restaurants and equally delicious.

Now, your route to a perfect Paris experience:

Delicious lunch time stop at bistro on Rue du Bac.

Left Bank wanderings:

• The most outstanding museum I’ve been to ever is the Quai Branly Museum right down the boulevard from the Eiffel Tower. Just go!

• The Paris Mosque is the oldest in France. I felt so at peace in the garden with fountains bubbling, roses blooming, bees humming. There is also a charming tea room and hammam (spa) in the mosque.

• For a sound and light show revolving around Impressionist painters, get tickets for the L’Atelier des Lumieres.

• Le Petit Journal jazz club.

• Rue du Bac shopping, bistros, art galleries.

• Les Antiquaires bistro on Rue du Bac.

• Maillol Museum.

* Orsay Museum.

• Rodin Museum.

The stained glass windows at Sainte-Chapelle — a royal chapel in the Gothic style within the medieval Palais de la Cité.

• The Catacombs are very interesting to tour and they also have music and theater performances inside the catacombs.

Views galore at the Luis Vuitton Foundation Museum.

Bois de Bologne:

• Luis Vuitton Foundation Museum designed by Frank Gehry. Also interesting music and dance performances.

Enjoy my dance video post of Lil Buck dancing with Picasso in the Luis Vuitton Foundation Museum.

• Walk in the Bois de Bologne park.

Cedric making us giggle on his tour of the Louvre.

Right Bank wanderings:

• Usually I avoid the Louvre but recently went on a fabulously funny and informative 2-hour “Laugh Your Way Through the Louvre” tour with Cedric the comedian.

• Le Duc des Lombards jazz club.

• Sunset-Sunside Jazz Club.

• Carmel ice cream at the elegant café in the Grand Palais which also has outstanding exhibits.

• Noura Lebanese brasserierie near Palais de Tokyo.

• Modern Art Museum of the City of Paris next to the Palais de Tokyo.

• Palais de Tokyo Museum and performance space.

De Verre en Vers wine shop on Rue des Abbesses.

Montmartre:

• The Musee de Montmartre has works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani, Kupka, Steinlen, Valadon, and Utrillo plus a great garden cafe. The oldest vineyard in France is right behind the museum.

• Eat a fab prix fixe meal at La Boite Aux Lettres . I recommend making a reservation via their website.

• Have another amazing meal at La Vache et la Cuisinier.

• Rue des Abbesses for shopping.

• Le Coquelicot bistro on Rue des Abbesses.

• Rue Des Martyrs for a charming example of neighborhood stores and cafes. Read Elaine Sciolino’s best-selling book The Only Street in Paris — Life on the Rue des Martyrs.

• De Verre en Vers wine shop on Rue des Abbesses for great wine suggestions for aperitifs at your apartment or a picnic.

• Sacré-Cœur Basilica.

Parisians picnicing on the Canal aint-Martin.

Canal Saint-Martin and La Villette on Right Bank:

• Walk along Canal Saint-Martin and Canal de l’ Ourcq or take a boat from in front of the Musee d’Orsay with Paris Canal or at Port de l’Arsenal with Canauxrama.

• Cabaret Sauvage music & cabaret club.

• New Morning Club for African and other live world music.

Music venue in La VIllette.

• Hôtel du Nord bistro.

• La Villette is a huge amusement and exposition hall park along the canal. There are many music venues within the park including the new Paris Philharmonic.

Superb prix fixe lunch at Chez Janou.

The Marais on the Right Bank:

• Chez Janou bistro

• Picasso Museum

• On weekends many of the streets are closed to cars and great for walking and shopping. Lots of excellent street performers for entertainment.

Just outside Paris:

• Rodin’s villa des Brillants, now a museum of his art, is located in Meudon, as is his grave. It is a short distance from Paris on the RER.